The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
“Vests” were much worn, both by married women and young ladies. The
“Oriental” vest was of red-gold or olive-coloured tissue. They were
pointed at the sides, coat-shaped at the back, trimmed all round
with a thick cord, and fastened from top to bottom by artistic or
shawl-patterned buttons; lace frills were worn at the throat and sleeves.
The “Breton” vest needs no description; this was as popular as the
“Oriental;” whereas the “Bulgarian” costume, with its closely-fitting
bodice, its skirt quite plain in front, open at the sides, and put
into very narrow plaits at the back, was considered by most women too
remarkable. The elastic, or “Jersey,” bodice must also be mentioned.
Gloves were scented with cedar of Lebanon, or Russia leather, or violets.
This was no new invention. Perfumed gloves were worn in the sixteenth
century. In the “Winter’s Tale,” Shakespeare tells us of “gloves as sweet
as damask roses.”
Fans were painted by excellent artists. Sunshades were large, and,
generally speaking, lined; with long sticks and handles of Dresden,
Sèvres, or Longwy china. They were closed by means of a ring.
Flowers were used in profusion both to decorate rooms, and for personal
wear. Every one was endeavouring to make amends for the bitter winter.
A newspaper reporter described the bride’s bouquet at a wedding, which
took place at the Trinité. It consisted entirely of rare and beautiful
flowers, and was nearly two yards in circumference. A “page of honour”
bearing this poetic burden, preceded the bride.
The following bonnets were produced in succession; bonnets with wide
strings in piece-surah; “Niniche” bonnets, already described, and
somewhat resembling a helmet in the front, “Amazon,” “Devonshire,”
“Récamier,” “Duchesse d’Angoulême,” “Olivia,” and “Princess of Wales”
hats; “Croizette” hats; and lastly the “midshipman”—a travelling-hat in
straw, the same colour as that of the costume, and simply trimmed with a
double or treble Alsatian bow.
All bonnets were profusely trimmed with feathers and flowers, with
dead-gold poppies, laburnum, tulips, gardenias, magnolias, and bachelor’s
buttons, and especially with roses of every shade.
During the summer, “sets” for the neck of surah and foulard were very
fashionable. Here I may specially mention the “Jean Bart,” consisting of
a widely-opened sailor collar, deep cuffs, and a simply-knotted neck-tie;
the “Chantilly,” in ivory surah, trimmed with Alençon point; the
“Pomponne,” in plain, spotted, or sprigged foulard; the “naval officer”
bow, in spotted foulard; and the “miller’s wife” fichu, in Indian muslin.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account