The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
During the first period of the Merovingian monarchy, both men and women
were clothed in the skins of animals. At times both sexes would wear
garments of felt, or narrow, short-sleeved silken mantles, dyed red or
scarlet, or garments of a coarse material made from camels’ hair and
thence named camlet. Camlet was sometimes woven with a silk warp.
Generally speaking, the women covered their heads with coifs, not unlike
the ancient mitres that originated in Persia, or they wore a linen or
cotton veil, ornamented with gold and gems, and drew the end of the right
side over the left shoulder. But the Frankish women proper wore a small
skull-cap called an “obbou.” Any person who knocked this cap off rudely
was mulcted in a heavy fine by the Salic law. Respect towards woman was
enforced by Franks and Germans alike.
Queen Clotilde is frequently represented as wearing a tunic, confined
round the waist by a band of some precious material. Her mantle is laced
together across the breast, and her hair falls in a long plait. Later
than this, St. Radégonde wore a sort of “guimpe” called “sabanum,” made
of lawn, rudely embroidered in gold, if we may credit Fortunat the poet,
who was frequently in her company. After her conversion the Queen of
Clotaire I. followed the fashions of the barbarians. Six years after
her marriage she withdrew from the court, in order to devote herself to
religious exercises, diversified by literary pursuits.
The Merovingian women were partial to many-coloured tunics, to
embroideries, to flowered stuffs, and to a sort of cape known to them of
old. This consisted of a piece of striped material of circular shape,
with an aperture for the head, and two holes for the arms; it covered the
chest and shoulders, and was fastened by strings round the loins. They
wore two belts, one above and the other below the bust. Their arms were
bare, as it was the custom of dwellers on the banks of the Rhine.
Sometimes—an instance is supplied by Ultrogothe, the wife of
Childebert—they made use of a large mantle, a sort of chlamys, fastened
at the throat or on the right shoulder by a clasp.
If to this we add an “escarcelle” or purse, in which kings and queens
carried coins to distribute to the poor, my readers will have an exact
idea of the female dress of the time.
In such costumes the fair Merovingians were wanting neither in charm, nor
dignity, nor in a certain modest elegance. They probably borrowed some
details of attire from the Gallo-Roman fashions and added them to their
own.
Bishop Fortunat, a Latin poet of that day, who was present at the wedding
of Siegbert and Brunehilde, alludes to the custom his countrywomen had
adopted of wreathing their hair with sweet-smelling flowers. Another
bishop and historian, Gregory of Tours, who from his position was also
well acquainted with the customs of the Merovingian court, speaks of
silken robes, which he describes as splendid.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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