The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time — John Shaqi
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
In the eleventh century women also wore “bliauds,” a sort of gown
reaching to the feet, with deep folds on either side, but scanty in front
and behind. The shape of the “bliaud” was afterwards altered, and long
sleeves were used in place of half sleeves. For travelling they might
wear the “garde-corps,” a long dress, open for a short distance from the
edge of the skirt in front, and with long wide sleeves; these they often
did not use as such, and in that case they hung loosely at the sides.
They also made use of walking-sticks of apple-wood, such as had been used
in earlier times by the Frankish warriors. It is recorded that Constance,
the second wife of King Robert, knocked out the eye of her confessor with
one of these canes. The Carlovingian women, as we have seen, had also
made use of walking-sticks.
From the beginning of the twelfth century many women wore round their
head a simple ribbon, ornamented with flowers or embroideries in the
case of the court ladies, who wore besides either a sort of chin-cloth
surrounding the face, or a “claque-oreille”—i.e. a hat with falling brims.
Women of the people wore veils or cloth hoods; those of high rank hoods
of velvet. These head-dresses were very becoming to Frenchwomen, who
altered them but slightly in the progress of time. In addition to these,
we remark in old illuminated MSS. head-dresses of hair only, a very
simple and yet elegant style.
From 1130 to 1140, women of noble rank divided their hair into two thick
plaits, falling in front of the shoulders, or, parting it as before,
they fastened the two long locks together by means of narrow bands of
silk or of gold tissue. Such hair-dressing as this required much care
and attention. Long plaits remained in fashion until about 1170, when
our countrywomen began to conceal their hair under a veil, or by a band
passing under the chin and fastened on the crown of the head, while the
hair was gathered together in a chignon at the nape of the neck.
At the same period they preferred plaques to necklaces. They wore these
plaques on the chest as brooches or clasps. The “afiche” or chest-clasp
was generally of a circular shape, and ornamented at each end with
a network of fine workmanship in precious metal set with pearl. The
handkerchief, of some valuable material, hung at the waist with the keys.
At the end of the twelfth century, Mabille de Retz, a noble and learned
lady of Provence, wore a fur-bordered gown without a waist-band. The
left side and left sleeve of the bodice are white, the other side blue.
Parti-coloured garments were already in vogue.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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