The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
At mercers’ shops, besides, ladies bought molekin, fine cambric, ruffs
for the neck with gold buttons, the tressons or tressoirs that they were
fond of twisting in their hair, and gold or pearl embroideries used for
head-dresses, or for ornament generally, the silken or velvet gown being
even bordered with them sometimes.
Lay figures, called “damoiselles,” were used for fitting on ladies’
dresses and other garments.
A young Frenchwoman in the fourteenth century wore her hair twisted
round her head, with a black ribbon; a white dress embroidered in silver,
bordered at the throat, shoulders, and elbows, and at the edge of the
skirt with a fillet of gold. Small sleeves reaching from elbow to wrist
were in red and white check, bordered with a double fillet of gold. Her
shoes were black.
Sometimes her hair was confined by a white veil, mingled with
pearl-embroidered ribbon; at other times she wore a coronet of beads, and
her hair flowed loose over her shoulders. She frequently appeared in a
short sleeveless tunic, called “corset fendu.” Frequently, too, her hair
was parted simply in two, and the long plaits arranged on the forehead.
To this she would add a “fronteau,” that is to say, either a tiara of
beads or a circlet of gold. She made “atours” for herself, or pads
stuffed in the shape of hearts, clubs, or horns.
A young girl of high birth wore the arms of her family; a married woman
wore both her husband’s and her own. Montfaucon, in his “Antiquités de la
Couronne de France,” gives us a drawing of an emblazoned gown belonging
to a noble lady; and in an ancient Bible we find a picture of a woman on
whose hair is a ribbon of gold tissue, and above it a small yellow cap
with gold buttons. The upper dress is bordered on the bosom with ermine
and gold bands, the skirt is of silver cloth, bearing a lion rampant and
three red stars. The under garment, of a dull yellow, is confined by a
gold band. The National Library contains the miniature of a French lady
of the fifteenth century. She wears a head-dress of silken material, the
white upper gown is bordered with fur, the under garment is yellow, and
ornamented at the throat with gold embroidery. The shoes are black.
Long narrow white gowns without any ornament were worn by great ladies
at home, when there was no occasion for ceremony; and they remained
in fashion for a considerable length of time. There were also short
sleeveless garments like the “sarreaux,” probably called “garnaches,” and
short ones with half sleeves called “garde-corps.”
Peasant women wore blue gowns, beneath which was a woollen petticoat
bordered with velvet. Their hats were of straw, and a becoming white
guimpe encircled the face.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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