The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time — John Shaqi
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
In 1428 a Breton monk, named Thomas Connecte, preached throughout
Flanders, Artois, Picardy, and the neighbouring provinces. He travelled
from town to town, riding on a small mule and followed by a crowd
of disciples on foot. On reaching his destination he said mass on a
platform expressly prepared for him, then he preached against non-juring
priests, the “hennins” of great ladies, and also against gamblers,
calling upon the latter to burn their draught-boards and chess-boards,
cards, ninepins, and dice. He called on children to help him, frequently
shouting out the first, by way of example, “_au hennin!_” whenever he
caught sight of any woman wearing a high head-dress in the streets; and
if she failed to find a speedy refuge in some house she was soon covered
with mud, dragged in the gutter, and sometimes severely wounded.
Connecte was looked upon by the people as an admirable reformer, but he
failed to reform the head-gear of women; victory remained with the hennin.
Another monk, a Franciscan, one Brother Richard, followed in the steps
of Connecte the Carmelite. On the 16th April, 1429, he began a course
of sermons at the Abbey Church of St. Geneviève, which lasted till
April 26th. He ascended the pulpit at five in the morning, and remained
there until ten or eleven o’clock. He, too, endeavoured to reform the
dress of women and their towering head-gear. His discourses occasioned
some disturbances. After the tenth sermon Brother Richard received his
dismissal from the Governor of Paris.
It could not be said that the holy men preached in the desert, for
wheresoever they lifted up their voices there were large audiences, and
for a time the obnoxious hennins disappeared; but only for a time. “The
ladies,” wrote Guillaume Paradin, the historian, “imitate the snails who
draw in their horns, and when the danger is over put them out farther
than ever; and in like manner hennins were never more extravagant than
after the departure of Brother Thomas Connecte.”
Finally, whether their husbands spoke on behalf of economy, or their
priests appealed to the decrees of the Church, victory remained with the
women. They only gave up the hennins from a caprice similar to that which
had invented them.
No one will expect to find Frenchwomen more constant or more economical
in dress than their husbands. In the reign of Charles V., beauty had
already asserted its claims, and coquetry filled the heart of women who
sought for admiration. They gave up the fashions of the Middle Ages,
and uncovered their bosoms; in addition to hennins they wore padded
head-dresses with horns, or pieces of stuff cut out and laid one upon the
other like the petals of a flower.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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