During the whole of the Middle Ages fair hair alone was considered beautiful. On this point the French and the ancient Greeks were of one mind. Homer has described the fair hair of Aphrodite, Hera, and Pallas Athene; in like manner our ancient poets describe their heroines as blonde beauties, and they invented the word “blondoyer,” to become, or to grow fair-haired. This fashion must have led to the manufacture of enormous quantities of false hair. [Illustration] [Illustration: Charles VIII 1483 to 1498 Louis XII 1498 to 1515] CHAPTER VIII. REIGNS OF LOUIS XI., CHARLES VIII., AND LOUIS XII. 1461 TO 1515. Duchesses and bourgeoises under Louis XI.—“La grand’gorre,” or sumptuosity—The “troussoire”—Allegorical and moral costumes—Trains—Head-dresses—“Collets rebrassés”—Wigs and false hair—Some results of the war in Italy—Italian fashions—“Sollerets” and slippers—Gorgets—Garters—Jean Marot writes against novelties—Anne of Brittany—Pins—Menot “the golden-tongued”—A Parisian in the time of Louis XII.—Coat à l’Italienne—Manufacture of stuffs. The Empire of Fashion was scarcely founded, ere it began to promulgate those despotic laws which have never been relaxed to the present day. The spread of luxury, art, and comfort, which became manifest at the dawn of the Renaissance, led to a sudden change in the whole character of costume. This fact has been commented on by all historians; and can be verified and explained by the archives of the period. Although for the most part Louis XI. affected a great simplicity in his dress, and was fond of playing the “bourgeois,” yet at times he desired to see his palace filled with nobles richly attired, and wearing magnificent stuffs, even of foreign manufacture. The astute sovereign appreciated the influence of fashion on commercial prosperity. Then commenced a competition in dress between the bourgeoisie of the towns and the nobility; as says the poet,— “En Paris, y en a beaucoup Qui n’ont d’argent, vergier, ne terre, Que vous jugeriez chascun coup Alliés aux grands chefs de guerre. Ils se disent issus d’Angleterre, D’un comte, d’un baron d’Anjou, Parents aux sénéchaux d’Auxerre, Ou aux châtelains du Poitou, Combien qu’ils soient saillis d’un trou, De la cliquette d’un meunier, Voire ou de la lignée d’un chou, Enfans à quelque jardinier ... Une simple huissière, ou clergesse Aujourd’hui se présumera Autant et plus qu’une duchesse; Heureux est qui en finira! Une simple bourgeoise aura Rubis, diamans et joyaux, Et Dieu sait si elle parlera Gravement en termes nouveaux!”[10]...