The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
The admirable miniatures on the manuscripts of the fifteenth century
certainly point to an improvement in head-dressing, as well as in attire
generally. We learn from them that the sugar-loaf head-dress was in
fashion during the whole of that century. It was ordinarily bordered in
front with gold embroidery on black velvet. That portion of the dress
which covered the chest was of black velvet, embroidered in the upper
part, and of gold tissue as far as the waist. The outer dress was of
blue velvet, embroidered in gold, and lined and bordered with crimson
velvet. The edge of the sleeves was of the same. The veil was white and
transparent, the belt green, and sparkling with gold ornaments. That part
of the under-dress which was visible below was violet; the shoes were
black.
Generally speaking, the train of a great lady was borne by a young girl.
The head-dress of the latter was black or brown velvet.
Our fair readers will remember that Charles VIII., son of Louis XI., made
a warlike expedition into Italy, where the “French fury” was lavishly
displayed. They are familiar, no doubt, with accounts of the entry of
Charles VIII. into Florence, Rome, Capua, and Naples successively. “The
discovery of Italy,” an historian very justly remarks, “had turned the
heads of the French; they were not strong enough to withstand its charm.
We use the right expression when we say ‘discovery.’ The companions of
Charles VIII. were not less astounded than were those of Christopher
Columbus.”
The Italians, on the other hand, greatly admired the agreeable manners
of the French. As Charles VIII. made his progress through their country,
they assumed the French mode of dress, and sent for all manner of finery
from France. Victors and vanquished made mutual exchange of manufactured
productions. The French, who still wore the striking costumes of the
days of chivalry, excited eager curiosity wheresoever they went, and the
greater the contrast between their garments and those of the Italians,
the more did the latter delight in wearing the French fashions. They
willingly exchanged their Genoese trinkets and jewels against the
products of the Arras looms, if only from mere love of novelty.
When the King of France had once more crossed the Alps and returned to
his capital, the French ladies in their turn experienced the fascination
that the soldiers of Charles VIII. had succumbed to in Italy. Their
“heads were” likewise “turned,” and their enthusiasm naturally had its
effect on the fashions of the day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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