The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
La belle Ferronière invented the head-dress which bore her name. A
skull-cap of velvet or satin, splendidly embroidered, was set amidst
curls that only reached to the shoulders. A narrow ribbon, or chain, in
the centre of which was fixed a jewel or _ferronière_, passed across the
brow and was fastened in a large knot at the back of the head.
Another style of head-dress formed the hair into bands half concealed
by lappets falling over the cheeks and a veil; the folds at one end
were gathered together into a golden tulip terminating in a cluster of
precious stones. The art of the goldsmith was thus combined with that of
the hair-dresser, and the most celebrated beauties adorned themselves in
every conceivable way.
They must have dreaded, especially after nightfall, the numerous thieves
abounding in the capital. Fancy going on foot so dazzlingly arrayed!
It is well to bear in mind that in the time of Francis I. there were but
three coaches in all Paris: one belonged to Queen Claude of France, a
daughter of Louis XII.; another to Diane de Poictiers, who at the age of
thirty-two had lost her husband, Louis de Brézé, Count de Maulevrier,
High Seneschal of Normandy, and who always wore the widow’s garb even
in the days of her greatest prosperity; and the third to a gentleman
named Réné de Laval, who could not mount on horseback on account of his
enormous size.
Our ancestors had nothing to fear from blocks of carriages, nor from the
mud by which we are often splashed in crowded streets.
At the end of the fifteenth century, Gilles le Maître, High President
of the Paris Parliament, executed a contract with his farmers, by which
the latter were bound “on the eves of the four great festivals of the
year, and at the time of the vintage, to provide him with a covered cart,
with good clean straw inside, in which his wife, Marie Sapin, and his
daughter, Geneviève, could be comfortably seated, and also to bring a
foal and a she-ass, on which their serving-women should ride, while he
himself should go first, mounted on his mule, and accompanied by his dog,
who would follow him on foot.”
Truly a humble conveyance for the wife of a High President, who himself
rode modestly on a mule!
If we examine the prints of the time of Henri IV., we shall be at a loss
to conceive how such very smart personages could pass through the streets
on foot, and with Brantôme, we shall begin to admire Marguerite de
Valois’s litters, as represented by the artists of that period, “heavily
gilt, and splendidly covered and painted with many fine devices, and her
coaches and carriages the same.”
The succeeding century witnessed great changes. The wife of the High
President, Christophe de Thou, was the first Frenchwoman, not a princess,
to whom permission to possess a carriage was granted. The bourgeoises
long envied her that delightful privilege!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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