The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
It is to a Venetian ambassador, an observer of French fashions towards
the time of Charles the Ninth’s death, that we are indebted for the
above interesting details. He adds: “French women have inconceivably
slender waists; they swell out their gowns from the waists downwards
by stiffened stuffs and vertugadins, the which increases the elegance
of their figure. They are very fanciful about their shoes, whether low
slippers or escarpins. The cotillon (under-skirt), which in Venice we
call _carpetta_, is always very handsome and elegant, whether worn by
a bourgeoise or a lady. As for the upper dress, provided it is made of
serge or ‘escot,’ little attention is paid to it, because the women,
when they go to church, kneel and even sit on it. Over the chemise
they wear a buste or bodice, that they call a ‘corps piqué,’ to give
them support; it is fastened behind, which is good for the chest. The
shoulders are covered with the finest tissue or network; the head, neck,
and arms are adorned with jewels. The hair is arranged quite differently
from the Italian fashion; they use circlets of wire and ‘tampons,’ over
which the hair is drawn in order to give greater width to the forehead.
For the most part their hair is black, which contrasts with their pale
complexions; for in France, pallor, if not from ill-health, is considered
a beauty.”
Our Venetian performs his task admirably. There is nothing omitted from
his description of the French ladies of the time; he is gallant, too, in
the highest degree. He moved in the best society, among the fine ladies
of the town and court.
The “corps piqué” mentioned by him was much like the corset or stays
of the present day, and tightly compressed the waist of women who were
determined, at any cost, to be slender; and all the more determined that
the men, as we have said before, vied with them in slenderness of waist.
They compressed their waists in an incredible and unbecoming manner,
quite unworthy of their sex.
On the other hand, women took more than ever to wearing the masculine
“caleçon,” a special kind of pourpoint made with hose.
We have already mentioned masks; we must now treat of paint, which was
introduced into France, it is said, by Catherine de Médicis.
Many of the court beauties coloured their cheeks in the evening with
sublimate, rendering it necessary to counteract its corrosive effects the
next morning. They used both pomades and cooling lotions for the face.
Perfumers manufactured their cosmetics for the toilet, by pulverizing and
blending together the claws and wings of pigeons, Venetian turpentine,
lilies, fresh eggs, honey, shells called “porcelaines,” ground
mother-o’-pearl, and camphor. All these ingredients were distilled with a
small quantity of musk and ambergris.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account