The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
“Dresses painted with figures and flowers are still worn, but there is
more green in the bouquets of flowers. They are beginning to paint the
finest linen, and this is quite a novelty, for all those we have seen
hitherto were only printed.
“Jet and enamel buttons are mentioned, watered ribbons, and square
watches with looking-glass at the back; but this last fashion does not
meet with approval, as it is thought the corners of the watch might be
dangerous.
“Net-work coifs were at first dotted, and afterwards open worked; this
last is quite a novelty, as are also the skirts of ‘point d’Angleterre,’
printed on linen and mounted on silk with raised ornaments; every woman
has bought some.”
Jewellery had a large sale: some in coloured glass, manufactured by a
clever artisan in the Temple, was called “Temple jewellery.”
Fashion now became a question of etiquette, and Louis XIV. was lawgiver.
The court obeyed every fancy of the sovereign, and the town followed
suit, as far as was possible, and more than was reasonable. Debts were
incurred for dress. A tailor made a claim of 300,000 francs on the great
Condé!
Men and women alike endeavoured to shine in dress. “At the royal
residences,” says Voltaire, “every lady found a complete suit of clothes
in readiness for her. A princess had but to appear in some striking
costume, and every lady of rank immediately endeavoured to imitate, even
to outshine her. The most extravagant sums were paid for dresses that
were continually renewed.” “Scarcely had one fashion usurped the place of
another,” says La Bruyère, “when it was succeeded by a third, which in
its turn was replaced by some still newer fashion, not by any means the
last.” Never had the refinements of Fashion been pushed so far.
The poverty of a great part of the population in the time of the Fronde
has been admitted. But Dubosc-Montandré, the author of a pamphlet called
“Le Tombeau du Sens Commun,” is of a different opinion, and exclaims in
1650: “If the people were poor, should we see neckerchiefs worth twenty
or thirty crowns on the wives of cooks? or liveried lacqueys carrying
a cushion behind their mistress, a mere shopkeeper’s wife? Should we
see milliners and butchers’ daughters wearing dresses worth 300 or 400
francs? or gold trimmings brought down so low as to adorn laundresses
withal? And is it not true that clothes ought to be infallible tokens by
which to distinguish rank and conditions in life, and that in the gardens
of the Luxembourg or the Tuileries we ought to have no difficulty in
distinguishing a duchess from a bookseller’s spouse, a marchioness from a
grocer’s wife, or a countess from a cook?”
Our author forgets that extravagance does not always indicate general
wealth, though it frequently casts suspicion on the moral tone of society.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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