The History of Java, v. 1-2Raffles, Thomas Stamford, Sir
History
The History of Java, v. 1-2
Raffles, Thomas Stamford, Sir
Java (Indonesia) -- History
The women, in like manner, wear the cloth tucked round their loins,
and descending in the form of a petticoat as low as the ankles. It is
folded somewhat differently from the cloth worn by the men, and never
tucked up as with them. The waistband or girdle by which they fasten
it, is termed _údat_. Round the body, passed above the bosom and close
under the arms, descending to the waistband, is rolled a body cloth
called _kémban_. They also commonly wear a loose gown reaching to the
knees, with long sleeves buttoning at the wrists. This gown is almost
invariably blue, never being of any variegated pattern, and as well as
the jacket of the men is usually termed _kalámbi_. The women do not
wear any handkerchief on their head, which is ornamented by their hair
fastened up in a _glung_ or knot, and by an appendage of large studs,
either of buffalo horn or brass, which they use for ear-rings. Both
men and women, even of the lowest class, wear rings on their fingers.
Those worn by the men are either of iron, brass, or copper; those of
the women of brass or copper only. The value of a man's dress, as above
described, may be estimated at about five rupees, twelve and sixpence;
and that of the women at about six rupees, or fifteen shillings.
The children of the lower orders go naked, from the age of fifteen or
eighteen months to six or seven years; but the children of persons of
condition always wear the _járit_ round their loins, together with a
jacket.
The higher orders wear a _járit_, of about seven or eight cubits long
and about three cubits wide, which with the men is folded once round
the loins, and allowed to descend to the ankles in the form of a
petticoat, but so as to admit of the leg being occasionally exposed
when set forward in the act of walking. The part which is folded in
front commonly hangs somewhat lower than the rest of the garment. The
_sábuk_ or waistband is generally of silk of the _chíndi_ or _patólé_
pattern. When at leisure within-doors, the men usually wear a loose
cotton gown descending as low as the knees; but when abroad, or in
attendance on public service, they for the most part wear a jacket of
broad cloth, silk, or velvet if procurable, frequently edged with lace
and ornamented with filagree buttons. This jacket is called _síkapan_
(from _sikap_ ready) as it intimates, when worn, that the party is
ready for duty. The jacket used by the Regents or chiefs of provinces,
and other officers of distinction, closely resembles the old Friesland
jacket, as worn about two centuries ago, and is probably modified,
if not entirely taken from it. Under the jacket the men always wear
a vest, usually of fine white cloth, with a single row of filagree
buttons, buttoning close to the body and at the neck like a shirt. If
the party is upon a journey or without doors in the sun, the _túdang_
or shade, which is usually of broad cloth or velvet, is fixed over
the face, having much the appearance of a large jockey cap. The petty
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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