The principal article of dress, common to all classes in the Archipelago, is the cloth or _sárong_, which has been described by Mr. Marsden to be "not unlike a Scots highlander's plaid in appearance, being a piece of party-coloured cloth, about six or eight feet long and three or four feet wide, sewed together at the ends, forming, as some writers have described it, a wide sack without a bottom." With the _Maláyus_, the _sárong_ is either worn slung over the shoulders as a sash, or tucked round the waist and descending to the ankles, so as to enclose the legs like a petticoat. The patterns in use among the _Maláyus_ or _Búgis_ are universally Tartan; but besides these, the Javans pride themselves in a great variety of others, the common people only wearing the Tartan pattern, while others prefer the Javan _bátek_ or painted cloths. On occasions of state they wear, in lieu of the _sárong_ or _járit_[43] (the ordinary cloth of the country, which differs from the _sárong_ in not being united at the ends), a cloth termed _dódot_, which is made either of cotton or silk and much larger. This is worn in the same way; but from its size, and the manner of its being tucked up, it falls in a kind of drapery, which is peculiar to Java. The men of the lowest class generally wear a pair of coarse short drawers, reaching towards the knee, with the _járit_ or cloth folded round the waist, and descending below the knees like a short petticoat. This cloth is always tucked up close round the waist, while the labourer is at work or moving abroad, but loosened, and allowed to descend to its full length, when in the presence of a superior. It is fastened round the waist by a narrow waistband or belt (_sábuk_). In general, the Javans are also provided with a jacket (_kalámbi_), having short sleeves reaching to the elbows. This is either white, or more frequently of light and dark blue stripes. A handkerchief or the (_íkat_) is always folded round the head. With the _Maláyus_ this handkerchief is generally of the Tartan pattern, but among the Javans it is of the _bátek_ cloth, and put on more in the manner of a turban than the handkerchief of a _Maláyu_ is: the crown of the head is covered with it, and the ends are tucked in. While abroad, they generally wear over it a large hat of leaves or of the split and plaited bambu, which shelters them like an umbrella from the sun and rain. A coarse handkerchief is usually tucked into the waistband, or a small bag is suspended from it, containing tobacco, _síri_, &c. The _kris_ or dagger, which is universally worn by all classes, completes the dress. To that of the labourer, according to the work he may be employed upon, is superadded a large knife or hatchet for cutting wood, brushwood, or grass.