The History of Java, v. 1-2Raffles, Thomas Stamford, Sir
History
The History of Java, v. 1-2
Raffles, Thomas Stamford, Sir
Java (Indonesia) -- History
Cotton, in its rough state, is called _kápas_, and when cleaned
_kápok_. The process of separating the seeds is performed by means of
a _gilíng'an_, which is a roller, consisting of two wooden cylinders
revolving in opposite directions, between which the fibre is made to
pass. This operation is very tedious, two days being necessary for
one person to clean a _káti_, equivalent to a pound and a quarter
English. After the separation of the seed, it is _géblek_, or beaten
with a rattan, and _píndi_ or picked. The finer sort is then bowed
after the Indian manner; this operation is called _wusóni_. The cotton
thus prepared is afterwards pulled out and drawn round a stick, when
it is called _púsuh_. To perform the process upon a single _káti_ will
employ one person about two days. The cotton is now ready for spinning
(_'ngánti_), and requires ten additional days' labour of one person, to
convert the small quantity above mentioned into yarn, when the result
is found to be three _tukal_, or hanks, of the ordinary kind.
Previous to the operation of weaving, the yarn is boiled, and
afterwards dressed and combed with rice-water. When dry, it is wound
round a sort of reel, termed _'íngan_, and prepared for weaving. These
are the last operations it undergoes till it is put into the hands of
the weaver, and requires, in ordinary circumstances, three days for
its completion. Four days are required even by an expert weaver, and
five or six by an ordinary one, to manufacture a _sárong_, or piece of
cloth, a fathom and a half long and five spans broad (equal to three
square handkerchiefs of the ordinary size worn on the head). The cloths
thus prepared, while uncoloured, are distinguished by the term _láwon_.
The spinning-wheel is termed _jántra_, and the spindle _kísi_. The
loom, with all its apparatus, is called _ábah ábah tenún_, the shuttle
_trópong_, the woof _máni_, and the warp _pákan_. Both machines
resemble those described on the continent of India, but are neater
and much better made: the loom especially is more perfect: the
weaver, instead of sitting in holes dug in the ground, invariably
sits on a raised flooring, generally in front of the house, her legs
being stretched out horizontally under the loom. The price of the
spinning-wheel varies from less than half a rupee to a rupee, and
that of the loom from a rupee to a Spanish dollar. The operations of
spinning and weaving are confined exclusively to the women, who from
the highest to the lowest rank, prepare the cloths of their husbands
and their families.
Coloured cottons (_járit_) are distinguished into _lúri_ or _lúri
gíng'gang_, those in which the yarn is dyed previously to weaving; and
_bátik_, those which are dyed subsequently. The process of weaving the
former is similar to that of the gingham, which it resembles, and need
not therefore be detailed; but the latter, being peculiar to Java, may
deserve a more particular description.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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