The History of Java, v. 1-2Raffles, Thomas Stamford, Sir
History
The History of Java, v. 1-2
Raffles, Thomas Stamford, Sir
Java (Indonesia) -- History
The cloths termed _bátik_ are distinguished into _bátik látur púti_,
_bátik látur írang_, or _bátik látur bang_, as the ground may be either
white, black, or red. The white cloth is first steeped in rice water,
in order to prevent the colour with which the patterns are intended
to be drawn, from running, and when they are dried and smoothed
(calendered), commences the process of the _bátik_, which gives its
name. This is performed with hot wax in a liquid state, contained
in a small and light vessel, either of copper or silver, called
_chánt-ing_,[50] holding about an ounce, and having a small tube of
about two inches long, through which the liquid wax runs out in a small
stream. This tube, with the vessel to which it is attached, being fixed
on a stick about five inches long, is held in the hand, and answers
the purpose of a pencil, the different patterns being traced out on
both sides of the cloth with the running wax. When the outline of the
pattern is thus finished, such parts of the cloth as are intended to
be preserved white, or to receive any other colour than the general
field or ground, are carefully covered in like manner with the liquid
wax, and then the piece is immersed in whatever coloured dye may be
intended for the ground of the pattern. To render the colour deeper,
cloths are occasionally twice dipped. The parts covered with wax resist
the operation of the dye, and when the wax is removed, by being steeped
in hot water till it melts, are found to remain in their original
condition. If the pattern is only intended to consist of one colour
besides white, the operation is here completed; if another colour is
to be added, the whole of the first ground, which is not intended to
receive an additional shade, is covered with wax, and a similar process
is repeated.
In order to render the dye fixed and permanent for the scarlet or
blood-red colour, the cloth is previously steeped in oil, and after
five days washed in hot water, and prepared in the usual way for the
_bátik_. In the ordinary course, the process of the _bátik_ occupies
about ten days for common patterns, and from fifteen to seventeen for
the finer and more variegated.
A very coarse kind of cloth, which serves for curtains or hangings,
is variously clouded, and covered sometimes with rude figures, by the
art of colouring the yarn, so as to produce this effect when woven.
For this purpose, the strands of the yarn being distributed in lengths
equal to the intended size of the cloth, are folded into a bundle,
and the parts intended to remain white are so tightly twisted round
and round, that the dye cannot penetrate or affect them. From this
party-coloured yarn the designed pattern appears on weaving. The cloths
so dyed are called _gebér_.
The sashes of silk, called _chíndi_, are dyed in this manner, as well
as an imitation of them in cotton, called _jóng'grong_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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