The History of Java, v. 1-2Raffles, Thomas Stamford, Sir
History
The History of Java, v. 1-2
Raffles, Thomas Stamford, Sir
Java (Indonesia) -- History
Of the several kinds of coloured cottons and silks there is a very
great diversity of patterns, particularly of the _bátik_, of which
not less than a hundred are distinguished by their appropriate names.
Among these are the patterns exclusively worn by the sovereign, termed
_bátik párang rúsa_, and _bátik sáwat_, and others which designate the
wearer, and are more or less esteemed, as well on this account as their
comparative beauty of design and execution.
With the exception of blue and scarlet or blood-red, all the dyes of
the inhabitants are liable to fade, and the processes offer nothing
worthy of investigation or remark.
In dying blue, indigo, the palm wine of the _áren_, and various
vegetable acids are employed.
Black is obtained from an exotic bark called _tíng'i_, and the rind of
the _mangustin_ fruit. In making the inferior infusion for this and for
various other dyes, the chaff of rice, called _meráng_, is employed.
In dying green, a light blue is first induced, which is afterwards
converted into the requisite hue, by infusion in a decoction of
_tegráng_ (an exotic wood), to which blue vitriol is added.
_Tegráng_ alone affords a yellow colour, and generally is qualified by
receiving the addition of some bark of the _nángka_ and _plem-dodól_.
A beautiful and lasting scarlet and blood-red is obtained from the
roots of the _wóng-kudu_. The yarn or cloth is first boiled in the
oil of _wijen_ or _kamíri_: being washed in a decoction of _meráng_
or burnt _pári_ chaff, it is dried, and subsequently immersed in
an infusion of the roots of _wóng-kudu_, the strength of which is
increased by the addition of the bark _jírak_, a variety of the
fruit _kepúndung_. In the preparation of this dye, the roots of the
_wóng-kudu_ are bruised and well mixed with water, which is then boiled
until it is reduced to one third, when it is fit for use. No light red
or rose colour of durability is produced by the Javans: they employ for
this purpose the _kasomba kling_.
In several of the maritime districts, the _Maláyus_ impart a beautiful
crimson colour to silk, by means of the _gúmlak tembálu_ or _embálu_,
but with this Javans are unacquainted.
The _kápas jáwa_, or Java cotton, in its raw and uncleaned state costs
from about three halfpence to three pence the _káti_, according to
its quality, and the _kápas múri_ from six to eight pence. The price
of each advances sometimes fifty per cent. beyond this, when the
production is scarce or out of season.
A _káti_ of uncleaned Java cotton is calculated to produce two and a
half _túkul_ or hanks of coarse, and three and a half hanks of fine
yarn; and a _káti_ of _kápas múri_, five hanks of the latter. The value
of the former is from three to four pence, and of the latter from seven
to ten.
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