The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.Gilroy, Clinton G.
History
The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.
Gilroy, Clinton G.
History, Ancient; Textile fabrics -- History
“To prepare the cocoons of the wild silk-worms, the Chinese cut the
extremities of them with a pair of scissors. They are then put into a
canvass bag, and immersed for an hour or more in a kettle of boiling
lye, which dissolves the gum. When this is effected, they are taken
from the kettle; pressed to expel the lye, and then laid out to dry.
Whilst they are still moist, the chrysalises are extracted; each
cocoon is then turned inside out, so as to make a sort of cowl. It is
necessary only, to put them again into lukewarm water, after which ten
or twelve of them are capped one upon another like so many thimbles, to
insert a small distaff through them, when the silk may be reeled off.”
Basil, in one of his Homilies, (_Opp. tom._ ii. _p._ 53. 55. _ed.
Benedict._) inveighs against the ladies of Cæsarea, who employed
themselves in weaving gold; and he is no less indignant at their
husbands who adorned even their horses with cloths of gold and scarlet
as if they were bridegrooms.
The author of a Treatise “De disciplinâ et bono pudicitiæ,” which is
usually published with Cyprian, and which may be referred to the fourth
or fifth century, thus speaks (_Cypriani Opera, ed. Erasmi, p._ 499.):
To weave gold in cloth is, as it were, to adopt an expensive method of
spoiling it. Why do they interpose stiff metals between the delicate
threads of the warp?
The same censure is implied in the following address of Alcimus Avitus
to his sister.
Non tibi gemmato posuere nonilia collo,
Nec te contexit, neto quæ fulguratauro
Vestis, ductilibus concludens fila talentis:
Nec te Sidonium bis coeti muricis ostrum
Induit, aut rutilo perlucens purpura succo,
Mollia vel tactu quæ mittunt vellera Seres:
Nec tibi transfossis fixerunt auribus aurum.
No threaded gems have pressed thy sparkling neck:
No cloth, with lines incased in ductile gold,
Or twice with the Sidonian murex dyed,
Has glittered on thee: thou hast never worn
The fleeces soft which distant Seres send:
Nor are thy ears transfixed for pendent gold.
The effect of such exhortations as the preceding, was to induce
piously disposed persons to apply pieces of gold cloth to _public_
and _sacred_, instead of private purposes. After this period we find
continual instances of their use in the decoration of churches and in
the robes of the priesthood.
AMBROSE, CL. A. D. 374.
Sericæ vestes, et auro intexta velamina, quibus divitis corpus
ambitur, damna viventium, non subsidia defunctorum sunt.--_De Nabutho
Jezraelitâ_, _cap._ i. _tom._ i. _p._ 566. _Ed. Bened._
Silken garments, and veils interwoven with gold, with which the body
of the rich man is encompassed, are a loss to the living, and no gain
to the dead.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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