The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.Gilroy, Clinton G.
History
The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.
Gilroy, Clinton G.
History, Ancient; Textile fabrics -- History
The Tyrians are chiefly known to us in commercial history for their
skill in dyeing; the Tyrian purple formed one of the most general and
principal articles of luxury in antiquity: but dyeing could scarcely
have existed without weaving, and though we have no direct information
respecting the Tyrian and Sidonian looms, we possess several ancient
references to their excellence, the less suspicious because they are
incidental. Homer, for instance, when Hecuba, on the recommendation
of the heroic Hector, resolves to make a rich offering to Minerva,
describes her as selecting one of Sidonian manufacture as the finest
which could be obtained.
The Phrygian queen to her rich wardrobe went
Where treasured odors breathed a costly scent;
There lay the vestures of no vulgar art--
Sidonian maids embroider’d every part,
Whom from soft Sidon youthful Paris bore
With Helen, touching on the Tyrian shore.
Here, as the queen revolved with careful eyes
The various textures and the various dyes,
She chose a veil that shone superior far,
And glow’d refulgent as the morning star.
_Iliad_, vi.
Tyre appears to have been the only city of antiquity which made dyeing
its chief occupation, and the staple of its commerce. There is little
doubt that purple, the sacred symbol of royal and sacerdotal dignity,
was a color discovered in that city; and, that it contributed to its
opulence and grandeur. It is related that a shepherd’s dog, instigated
by hunger, having broken a shell on the sea shore, his mouth became
stained with a color, which excited the admiration of all who saw it,
and that the same color was afterwards applied with great success
to the dyeing of wool. According to some of the ancient writers,
this discovery is placed in the reign of Phœnix, second King of Tyre
(five hundred years before the Christian era); others fix it in that
of Minos, who reigned 939 years earlier or, 1439 B. C. The honor of
the invention of dyeing purple, is however, generally awarded to the
Tyrian Hercules, who presented his discovery to the king of Phœnicia;
and the latter was so jealous of the beauties of this new color, that
he forbade the use of it to all his subjects, reserving it for the
garments of royalty alone. Some authors relate the story differently:
Hercules’ dog having stained his mouth with a shell, which he had
broken on the seashore, Tysus, a nymph of whom Hercules was enamored,
was so charmed with the beauty of the color, that she declared she
would see her lover no more until he had brought garments dyed of the
same. Hercules, in order to gratify his mistress, collected a great
number of the shells, and succeeded in staining a robe of the color
she had demanded. “Colored dresses,” says Pliny[65], “were known in
the time of Homer (900 B. C.), from which the robes of triumph were
borrowed.” Purple habits are mentioned among the presents made to
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