The History of the Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece, Volume 3 (of 3)St. John, James Augustus
History
The History of the Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece, Volume 3 (of 3)
St. John, James Augustus
Greece -- Social life and customs
Wherever, and by whomsoever, discovered, the purple was known in the
time of Moses, who introduced it into the costume of the high priest,
and among the ornaments of the tabernacle.[1368] Homer,[1369] too,
speaks of purple among the colours worn by his heroes, for example, a
large purple pelisse. Iris is denominated “purple;” we have mention,
also, of a “purple cloak, of a purple ball wherewith to play;” “purple
coverings,” of great beauty, for beds, or seats; “purple carpets;”
“purple threads,” where the “sea-purple” is distinctly spoken of.[1370]
Again, in another part of the Odyssey, we find it said, that women wove
the “purple cloaks.”[1371] The President Goguet has entered into many
useful investigations respecting the manner in which the Tyrian dye was
used; but at the outset confounds the _conchyliatæ vestes_ with the
purple garments, though Pliny, on whom he chiefly relies, constantly
distinguishes them. The dye was obtained from several kinds of
shell-fish[1372] found in the Mediterranean, the best on the island on
which New Tyre was built.[1373] Aristotle, who of all the ancients has
best described the purple fish, observes, that there were several
species, of which some were of considerable size, such as those caught
near Sigeion and Lecton; while those found on the coast of Caria and in
the Euripos were small. Generally, he says, such as inhabited bays or
arms of the sea were large and rough, and contained a liquid of blackish
hue, though sometimes it was reddish, and small in quantity. Some of
these were a mina, or about seventeen ounces, in weight. Those caught
close along shores, or about headlands were usually of small size, but
the dye they yielded was of a ruddier tinge. In general, too, it was
thought that those found on northern coasts produced a darker, those on
southern coasts a ruddier dye.[1374] Purple fisheries were carried on on
the coast of Africa, near the island of Menninx, and on the shores of
Getulia.[1375] So, likewise, in Europe,[1376] on the coast of
Laconia,[1377] whose purple was greatly celebrated; in the Euripos, as
we have seen above;[1378] and in the terrible southern bend of Eubœa,
beneath the cliffs of Mount Caphareus.[1379] An inferior kind of purple
was obtained from the buccinum,[1380] but the genuine dye was produced
by the _calchè_ alone. The colour was contained in a white vein about
the neck, the remainder of the fish being of no value. To secure, this,
however, it was necessary to take the fish alive, for at its death the
colour fled. Having been carefully collected, and left to macerate in
salt[1381] during three days, it was mixed with a certain quantity of
water. The whole was then boiled for ten days in leaden boilers over a
slow fire.[1382] After this the wool well washed, cleansed and properly
prepared, was dipped into it. Here it was allowed to soak during five
hours. It was then taken out, dried, carded, and thrown back, where it
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