[Illustration: JERUSALEM. From the traditional spot on the Mount of Olives where Christ wept over the city.] [Illustration: THE HOLY LAND PAINTED BY JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I. DESCRIBED BY JOHN KELMAN, D.D. A&C BLACK L^{TD} 4.5.6 SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.1.] _Printed in Great Britain by_ R. & R. CLARK, LIMITED, _Edinburgh_. _First Edition, with 93 illustrations, published in October 1902 Reprinted in 1904 and 1912 Second Edition, revised, with 32 illustrations, published in 1923_ AGENTS AMERICA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 64 & 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK AUSTRALASIA THE OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS 205 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE CANADA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD. ST. MARTIN’S HOUSE, 70 BOND ST., TORONTO INDIA MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD. MACMILLAN BUILDING, BOMBAY 309 BOW BAZAAR STREET, CALCUTTA INDIAN BANK BUILDINGS, MADRAS Preface The secrets of satisfactory travel are mainly two--to have certain questions ready to ask; and to detach oneself from preconceptions, so as to find not what one expects, or desires to find, but what is there. These rules I endeavoured to follow while in the Holy Land. As to this book, I have tried to write it “with my eye on the object”--to describe things as they were seen, and to see them again while describing them. The extent to which this ideal has been reached, or missed, will be the measure of the book’s success or failure. No attempt has been made to add anything original to the scientific knowledge of Palestine. For that task I am not qualified either by sufficient travel or by expert study of the subject. On the other hand, this is not merely an itinerary, or journal of experiences and adventures of the road. I have freely introduced notes from my journal in illustration of characteristics of the country and its life, and have claimed the privilege of digressing in various directions. But the main object has been to give a record of impressions rather than of incidents.