The Holy Land and SyriaCarpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Religion
The Holy Land and Syria
Carpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Palestine -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
But let us come down from our housetop and take a walk through the crowd.
We are at the Jaffa Gate, which leads to the railroad station a half mile
from the walls. It is also at the end of the roads to Bethlehem, Hebron,
and Jaffa, and is the main business gate of the city. It is always
thronged, and the people who go in and out come from all parts of the
world. They are of all colours—blacks, browns, yellows, and whites—and
number a dozen different nationalities from the near-by parts of Asia,
Europe, and Africa. Here comes a donkey led by a fat, bare-footed Turk
in a yellow gown and red turban. His beast is loaded with wood which he
is bringing into the city for sale. The wood is the roots of olive trees
and his donkey load is worth twenty-five cents. He is stopped by the
customs officer at the gate and pays a tax of three cents. Behind him
comes a porter with a bag half as big as a hogshead fastened to the small
of his back. Inside the bag is a basket filled with the flat cakes which
form the bread of the city.
Now turn to the right and look at that Syrian Bedouin riding a gray
Arabian pony. There is a gun on his back and he wears a black-and-white
woollen blanket. His head is covered with a great yellow handkerchief
bound about the crown with two strands of hair cord the size of your
finger. Sitting as straight as a ramrod, he looks with fierce black eyes
at the crowd about him. Behind him come three camels laden with the
oranges of Jaffa. Each beast has a cartload of the great yellow balls in
the two crates which hang over his back, and he grumbles and whines as
his barefooted driver drags him along by a string tied to his nose.
As we look we see the figures of the Old and New Testaments crowding
around us. There are peasants who might have been among the disciples,
and gray-bearded men who would pass for Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. We see
boys with coats of many colours, which remind us of Joseph, and shepherds
driving sheep into market who probably came from the very plains near
Bethlehem where similar shepherds were watching their flocks when the
heavenly host appeared.
Let us take a seat with those Syrians on the porch of the coffee house
outside the gate and make further sketches of those who go in. Here come
two figures dressed all in white. They look like walking bed ticks bound
around at the middle, or, better, like the ghosts of a sheet and pillow
case party. They are Mohammedan women, and it is against their ironclad
custom for them to go out unveiled. They have wrapped their bodies in
sheets the folds of which they hold close together over their faces,
leaving only a crack by which they may see to pick their way through the
crowd.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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