The Holyhead Road: The Mail-coach Road to Dublin. Vol. 1Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Holyhead Road: The Mail-coach Road to Dublin. Vol. 1
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A5 Road (England and Wales); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
Verulamium, in common with those other towns, was afterwards rebuilt,
and grew more prosperous than before; but it met a similar fate some 400
years later, when the Roman troops left Britain, and barbaric hordes
overwhelmed it in some obscure foray. The very obscurity that clings
about its end adds to the horror of those times. Those were wars of
extermination, and none were left to tell the tale of how the great town
and its people perished by fire and sword. Only when, in course of time,
civilisation touched the Saxons, and historians were produced, do we
hear anything of these long-ruined places, by that time become tinged
with mystery and regarded with shrinking aversion. Bede, writing about
A.D. 720, calls this “Waetlinga-ceaster,” the city of the Watlings. In
his time vast ruined walls and houses remained. Offa, when founding St.
Albans Abbey, some seventy years later, was probably dissuaded by fears
of the supernatural from drawing upon the ruins for building material.
It was not so with those who rebuilt and enlarged his Abbey from time to
time. They found and worked the ready mine of bricks and tiles, doubly
valuable in that district innocent of stone, and thus it is that so
little of ruined Verulam is left; but, gazing upon the Abbey, we see, in
the immense quantities of Roman brick and tile that have gone towards
its construction, that ancient Roman town in a manner re-incarnated.
[Illustration: MARKET-PLACE, ST. ALBANS.]
Towards the middle of the tenth century, those ruins in the valley were
a source of terror to the good folks of the rising town of St. Albans.
In them lurked those outlaws—robbers, murderers, and general
offscourings of society—for whom it would have been dangerous to appear
in the town, and who rendered it equally dangerous for law-abiding
burgesses to wander far from their domestic hearths when the sun had set
and darkness gathered. It was partly for this reason, perhaps quite as
much as for the use of the materials for building purposes, that so much
of the ruins was removed by Ealdred, the eighth Abbot. He warred with
the Verulam vagabonds, carting much of their harbourage away, and
explored a cave supposed to be inhabited by a dragon—who was not at home
on that occasion. The good Abbot, however, is said to have found traces
of the monster! His successor, Eadmer, was of the fiery sort. He, too,
removed much building material, but the “pagan altars” found during his
explorations he ground to powder—and so earns the maledictions of all
antiquaries.
And so it went on for centuries. Stukeley, about 1690, noticed a good
part of the walls standing, but, as he rode along, saw hundreds of loads
of Roman bricks being carted off, to mend the highway.
XVI
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