The Holyhead Road: The Mail-coach Road to Dublin. Vol. 2Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Holyhead Road: The Mail-coach Road to Dublin. Vol. 2
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A5 Road (England and Wales); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
“This place,” says Warner, “as its name imports, was connected with the
awful superstitions of the ancient Britons, and exhibited some years
since vestiges of Druidical worship.” These vestiges were British stone
huts or tombs—the “kistvaens” of archæological literature. Warner and
the peasantry thought them to be prisons, but, whatever they were, they
have long since disappeared; only the rocky site—like a granite island
rising from the surrounding level—remaining to give a reason for
Cerrig’s name. It is curious to reflect that the village of Crick in
Northants, was originally Cerrig, and that the name of Carrick, in
Ireland, has a similar meaning. Only in England, where ages ago “the
coiling serpent” (as the Welsh call the advancing Saxon) established
himself and expelled the Celt, has the word been corrupted. When Borrow
came to Cerrig-y-Druidion he says he stayed at the “Lion—whether the
white, black, red, or green Lion I do not know.” It was, in fact, the
“White Lion,” which still protrudes a battered and weather-beaten sign
over the bye-street, while the “Saracen’s Head” stands boldly upon the
main road. How he met the Italian who spoke Welsh, and on the morrow met
the Irish fiddler with the game leg and the infernal cheek, let the
pages of _Wild Wales_ relate.
XLI
The scattered cottages and old toll-house of Glasfryn bring one to
Cernioge, the place to which the milestones have been insistently
directing, since Corwen. What, the stranger wonders, is this place
(“Kernioggy” the Welsh pronounce it) that it should be thus dignified?
Well, here it is, just a farmhouse lying back from the road, with a pond
beside it under the trees, a few outbuildings, and an older toll-house
than the Glasfryn one. Not, nowadays, a very striking spot, except for
its remote solitude; yet this, in the old days of road-travel, was a
quite famous inn and posting-house, a stage between Bettws-y-Coed and
the “Druid’s Head.” The inevitable reflection here is that if it was to
such lonely places as this that travellers of old were glad to come,
exclaiming with delight as to their comfort, how discomfortable must
travelling then have been!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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