The Holyhead Road: The Mail-coach Road to Dublin. Vol. 2Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Holyhead Road: The Mail-coach Road to Dublin. Vol. 2
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A5 Road (England and Wales); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
These appear to have been ill years for the famous old house. Coaching
and posting business had decayed, and the commercial growth of
Birmingham did not make amends for the loss of the good business done
with the nobility and gentry who resorted here in the old days of the
road, but now travelled through by train. Devis, accordingly disappears,
and the Waddell family, finding difficulties in getting a tenant, put in
a manager, Joseph Shore by name. A tenant was at length found in Frank
Smith, who had long been a druggist in New Street, but was now ready to
try his fortune as hotel-keeper. His rule extended from 1849 to 1867,
and was then changed for that of Oldfield, who reigned until 1878, when
the old fittings of the hotel were sold and its career brought to a
close. The end of the building, was, however, not yet, and the “Hen and
Chickens” continued in a modified form, until 1895. Lately it has been
pulled down, and a tall, showy “Hen and Chickens Hotel and Restaurant,”
in a Victorian Renaissance style and liver-coloured terra-cotta erected
on the site; a complete change from the old house, once looked upon as
an ornament to New Street, but become at last, owing to the rebuilding
carried on all around, altogether out of date and, by contrast, heavy
and gloomy. Its severe architecture had been frilled and furbelowed at
different times—a portico built out over the pavement in 1830, and a
stone attic storey added in more recent years, with a saucy turret at
one end—but, however comfortable within, the exterior suggested a bank
or some sort of public institution, rather than the warmth and good
cheer of an hostelry, and so it was swept away.
“The Fowls” as Young Birmingham delighted to call the “Hen and
Chickens,” housed of course many notable persons, but not those of the
most exclusive kind. The “Royal,” where no coaches came, was in those
days the first house. In later days, however, somewhere about 1874, the
“Hen and Chickens” lodged the Grand Duke of Hesse, and never ceased to
boast the fact. Absurdly much was made of him. He walked on special
carpets, dined off plate that had graced no plebeian board, and came and
went between rows of servants frozen at a reverential angle of
forty-five degrees. The management even went to the length of placing
likenesses of his wife on his dressing-table, to make it seem more
home-like. Excellent creatures! How touching a belief they cherished in
the prevalence of the domestic virtues, even in the august circumstances
of a Grand Duke!
V
Although the “Hen and Chickens” had so early been removed to New Street,
Bull Ring and High Street continued to be the chief coaching
thoroughfares. There stood the “Swan,” the “Dog” afterwards known as the
“Nelson,” the “Castle,” “Albion,” and “St. George’s Tavern.” In Bull
Street was the “Saracen’s Head.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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