At home, as a rule, only the chiton was worn. It was, however, not
considered correct to be seen thus in the street: only artisans or
eccentric people went out without a cloak; but it was just as incorrect
to appear without the chiton, only in the himation or chlamys. It is
true this is very common on works of art: Zeus, Poseidon, and some other
gods are represented without the chiton, and only in the himation, and
Hermes and Apollo only in the chlamys; and even in representations of
daily life we very often see in statues, reliefs, vase pictures, etc.,
men without under garments, clad only in the cloak (compare the youth in
Fig. 9), and also in portrait figures. This is, however, a liberty taken
by artists in order to avoid concealing the body entirely by the dress,
but by no means corresponding to reality. Only those who specially
desired to harden their bodies, and also poor people and certain
philosophers who wished to proclaim their cynic principles by
exceedingly scanty dress, went out, even in winter, in a cloak without
an under garment. Shirt and trousers were unknown in Greek male dress;
the latter are Oriental, and therefore only appear on monuments
representing barbarous persons.
As regards female dress, it may be stated at once that the strong
contrast found in modern times between the dress of men and women is
foreign to Greek antiquity: both have essentially the same elements,
sometimes even the same shape; and this similarity becomes greater the
nearer we get to antiquity. This was not carried so far that a woman
could simply have put on a man’s under garment; in fact, even the
Homeric epics distinguish the woman’s _peplos_ from the man’s chiton.
Unfortunately, both the shape and the mode of wearing the Homeric peplos
are matters of dispute which cannot be satisfactorily settled by the
words of the epic. According to Helbig, it was not essentially different
from the long male chiton; like this, it descended to the feet, fitting
closely and without folds to the figure, and was provided with an
opening for head and arms. The girdle was worn rather low down, not
immediately under the breast or round the waist, but round the hips, and
fell down somewhat in front. The peplos was put on by means of a slit
between the breasts, which often descended as far as the feet, and was
fastened by a large number of fibulae, or hooks. Helbig thinks that this
fashion was due to Oriental influence, since such openings are very
commonly found on monuments representing Oriental nations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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