Everyone who visits Tusayan will bring away as a souvenir some of the
work of Nampeo, the potter who lives with her husband Lesu in the
house of her parents at Hano, the little Tewa village on the great
Walpi mesa near the gap. The house belongs to Nampeo's mother
according to Pueblo property right, wherein she and her husband, both
aged and ruddy Tewa, with their children and grandchildren live
amicably as is usual among the Peaceful People. The house below the
mesa, topped with a glowing red iron "Government" roof, is Nampeo's,
who thus has two houses, but she spends most of her time in the
parental dwelling at Hano.
Nampeo is a remarkable woman. No feeling of her racial inferiority
arises even on the first meeting with this Indian woman, barefoot,
bonnetless, and clad in her quaint costume. For Nampeo is an
artist-potter, the sole survivor in Hano of the generations of women
artists who have deposited the product of their handicraft in the care
of the dead.
In the household her aged father and mother are final authority on the
interpretation of ancient symbolic or cult representations in art.
Nampeo likewise carefully copies on paper the decorations of all
available ancient pottery for future use. Her archeological methods
are further shown by her quest for the clays used by those excellent
potters of old Sikyatki and by her emulation of their technique.
One noon under the burning August sun, Doctor Fewkes and the writer
climbed the East Mesa, the former to attend the Flute Ceremony at
Walpi and the latter with an appointment to pry into the secrets of
Nampeo, the potter. In the house, pleasantly cool and shaded, sat the
old couple and Lesu. The baby was being secured to its board for its
afternoon nap, while Lesu spun. It was a pleasure to examine the
quaint surroundings and the curious belongings hung on the wall or
thrust above the great ceiling beams,--strings of dried _wiwa_, that
early spring plant which has before now tided the Peaceful People over
famine, gaily painted dolls, blankets, arrows, feathers, and other
objects enough to stock a museum. Lesu did the honors and said among
other things that some of the ceiling beams of the room came from
ancient Awatobi, destroyed in 1700.
A small niche in the rear wall of the living room, at the back of
which stood a short notched log-ladder, caused some speculation. Quite
unexpectedly and in a somewhat startling way its purpose was
explained, for, when someone called the absent Nampeo, a pair of feet
were seen coming down the steps of the ladder, followed finally by
Nampeo, who, after a profound bodily contortion, smilingly emerged
from the narrow passage into the room.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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