Dauphiné (France) -- Description and travel; Huguenots; Waldenses
A few words as to the origin of these fragmentary papers. In chalking
out a summer holiday trip, one likes to get quite away from the
ordinary round of daily life and business. Half the benefits of such a
trip consists in getting out of the old ruts, and breathing fresh air
amidst new surroundings. But this is very difficult if you follow the
ordinary tourist's track. London goes with you and elbows you on your
way, accompanied by swarms of commissionaires, guides, and beggars.
You encounter London people on the Righi, on the Wengern Alp, and
especially at Chamouni. Think of being asked, as I once was on
entering the Pavilion at Montanvert, after crossing the Mer de Glace
from the Mauvais Pas, "Pray, can you tell me what was the price of
Brighton stock when you left town?"
There is no risk of such rencontres in Dauphiny, whose valleys remain
in almost as primitive a state as they were hundreds of years ago.
Accordingly, when my friend Mr. Milsom, above mentioned, invited me to
accompany him in one of his periodical visits to the country of the
Vaudois, I embraced the opportunity with pleasure. I was cautioned
beforehand as to the inferior accommodation provided for travellers
through the district. Tourists being unknown there, the route is not
padded and cushioned as it is on all the beaten continental rounds.
English is not spoken; Bass's pale ale has not yet penetrated into
Dauphiny; nor do you encounter London tourists carrying their tin
baths about with them as you do in Switzerland. Only an occasional
negotiant comes up from Gap or Grenoble, seeking orders in the
villages, for whom the ordinary auberges suffice.
Where the roads are practicable, an old-fashioned diligence may
occasionally be seen plodding along, freighted with villagers bound
for some local market; but the roads are, for the most part, as silent
as the desert.
Such being the case, the traveller in the valleys must be prepared to
"rough it" a little. I was directed to bring with me only a light
knapsack, a pair of stout hob-nailed shoes, a large stock of patience,
and a small parcel of insect powder. The knapsack and the shoes I
found exceedingly useful, indeed indispensable; but I had very little
occasion to draw upon either my stock of patience or insect powder.
The French are a tidy people, and though their beds, stuffed with
maize chaff, may be hard, they are tolerably clean. The food provided
in the auberges is doubtless very different from what one is
accustomed to at home; but with the help of cheerfulness and a good
digestion that difficulty too may be got over.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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