Dauphiné (France) -- Description and travel; Huguenots; Waldenses
Wherever you go in Dauphiny, you come upon the footmarks of this great
soldier. At Grenoble there is the Constable's palace, now the
Prefecture; and the beautiful grounds adjoining it, laid out by
himself, are now the public gardens of the town. Between Grenoble and
Vizille there is the old road constructed by him, still known as "Le
chemin du Connétable." At St. Bonnet, in the valley of the Drac,
formerly an almost exclusively Protestant town, known as "the Geneva
of the High Alps," you are shown the house in which the Constable was
born; and a little lower down the same valley, in the commune of
Glaizil, on a hill overlooking the Drac, stand the ruins of the family
castle; where the Constable was buried. The people of the commune were
in the practice of carrying away the bones from the family vault,
believing them to possess some virtue as relics, until the prefect of
the High Alps ordered it to be walled up to prevent the entire removal
of the skeletons.
In the early part of his career, Lesdiguières was one of the most
trusted chiefs of Henry of Navarre, often leading his Huguenot
soldiers to victory; capturing town after town, and eventually
securing possession of the entire province of Dauphiny, of which
Henry appointed him governor. In that capacity he carried out many
important public works--made roads, built bridges, erected fourteen
fortresses, and enlarged and beautified his palace at Grenoble and his
château at Vizille. He enjoyed great popularity during his life, and
was known throughout his province as "King of the Mountains." But he
did not continue staunch either to his party or his faith. As in the
case of many of the aristocratic leaders of those times, Lesdiguières'
religion was only skin deep. It was but a party emblem--a flag to
fight under, not a faith to live by. So, when ambition tempted him,
and the Constable's baton dangled before his eyes, it cost the old
soldier but little compunction to abandon the cause which he had so
brilliantly served in his youth. To secure the prize which he so
coveted, he made public abjuration of his faith in the church, of St.
Andrew's at Grenoble in 1622, in the presence of the Marquis de
Crequi, the minister of Louis XIII., who, immediately after
Lesdiguières' first mass, presented him with the Constable's baton.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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