One might best compare the Ventoux with a heap of stones broken up for
road-mending purposes. Raise this heap suddenly to a height of a mile
and a quarter, increase its base in proportion, cover the white of the
limestone with the black patch of the forests, and you have a clear
idea of the general aspect of the mountain. This accumulation of
rubbish—sometimes small chips, sometimes huge blocks—rises from the
plain without preliminary slopes or successive terraces that would
render the ascent less arduous by dividing it into stages. The climb
begins at once by rocky paths, the best of which is worse than the
surface of a road newly strewn with stones, and continues, becoming
ever rougher and rougher, right to the summit, the height of which is
6270 feet. Greenswards, babbling brooks, the spacious shade of
venerable trees, all the things, in short, that lend such charm to
other mountains, are here unknown and are replaced by an interminable
bed of limestone broken into scales, which slip under our feet with a
sharp, almost metallic ‘click.’ By way of cascades the Ventoux has
rills of stones; the rattle of falling rocks takes the place of the
whispering waters.
We are at Bédoin, at the foot of the mountain. The arrangements with
the guide have been made, the hour of the start fixed; the provisions
are being talked over and got ready. Let us try to rest, for we shall
have to spend a sleepless night on the mountain to-morrow. But sleeping
is just the difficulty; I have never managed it and that is where the
chief cause of fatigue lies. I would therefore advise those of my
readers who think of making a botanizing ascent of the Ventoux not to
arrive at Bédoin on a Sunday evening. They will thus avoid the noisy
bustle of an inn with a café attached to it, those endless loud-voiced
conversations, those echoing cannons of the billiard-balls, the ringing
of glasses, the drinking-songs, the ditties of nocturnal wayfarers, the
bellowing of the brass band at the ball hard by, and the other
tribulations inseparable from this blessed day of idleness and
jollification. Will they obtain a better rest on a week-day? I hope so,
but I do not guarantee it. For my part, I did not close an eye. All
night long, the rusty spit, working to provide us with food, creaked
and groaned under my bedroom. A thin board was all that separated me
from that machine of the devil.
But already the sky is growing light. A donkey brays beneath the
windows. It is time to get up. We might as well not have gone to bed.
Foodstuffs and baggage are strapped on; and, with a ‘Ja! Hi!’ from the
guide, we are off. It is four o’clock in the morning. At the head of
the caravan walks Triboulet, with his Mule and his Ass: Triboulet, the
Nestor of the Ventoux guides. My botanical colleagues inspect the
vegetation on either side of the road by the cold light of the dawn;
the others talk. I follow the party with a barometer slung from my
shoulder and a note-book and pencil in my hand.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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