My barometer, intended for taking the altitude of the principal
botanical halts, soon becomes a pretext for attacks on the gourd with
the rum. No sooner is a noteworthy plant observed than somebody cries:
‘Quick, let’s look at the barometer!’
And we all crowd around the gourd, the scientific instrument coming
later. The coolness of the morning and our walk make us appreciate
these references to the barometer so thoroughly that the level of the
stimulant falls even more swiftly than that of the mercury. In the
interests of the immediate future, I must consult Torricelli’s tube a
little less often.
As the temperature grows too cold for them, first the oak and the ilex
disappear by degrees; then the vine and the almond-tree; and next the
mulberry, the walnut-tree and the white oak. Box becomes plentiful. We
enter upon a monotonous region extending from the end of the cultivated
fields to the lower boundary of the beech-woods, where the predominant
plant is Satureia montana, the winter savory, known here by its popular
name of pébré d’asé, Ass’s pepper, because of the acrid flavour of its
tiny leaves, impregnated with essential oil. Certain small cheeses
forming part of our stores are powdered with this strong spice. Already
more than one of us is biting into them in imagination and casting
hungry glances at the provision-bags carried by the Mule. Our hard
morning exercise has brought appetite and more than appetite, a
devouring hunger, what Horace calls latrans stomachus. I teach my
colleagues how to stay this rumbling stomach until they reach the next
halt; I show them a little sorrel-plant, with arrow-head leaves, the
Rumex scutatus, or French sorrel; and, practising what I preach, I pick
a mouthful. At first they laugh at my suggestion. I let them laugh and
soon see them all occupied, each more eagerly than his fellow, in
plucking the precious sorrel.
While chewing the bitter leaves, we come to the beeches. These are
first big, solitary bushes, trailing on the ground; soon after, dwarf
trees, clustering close together; and, finally, mighty trunks, forming
a dense and gloomy forest, whose soil is a mass of rough limestone
blocks. Bowed down in winter by the weight of the snow, battered all
the year round by the fierce gusts of the mistral, many of the trees
have lost their branches and are twisted into grotesque positions, or
even lie flat on the ground. An hour or more is spent in crossing this
wooded zone, which from a distance shows against the sides of the
Ventoux like a black belt. Then once more the beeches become bushy and
scattered. We have reached their upper boundary and, to the great
relief of all of us, despite the sorrel-leaves, we have also reached
the stopping-place selected for our lunch.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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