We are at the source of the Grave, a slender stream of water caught, as
it bubbles from the ground, in a series of long beech-trunk troughs,
where the mountain shepherds come to water their flocks. The
temperature of the spring is 45° F.; and its coolness is a priceless
boon for us who have come from the sultry oven of the plain. The cloth
is spread on a charming carpet of Alpine plants, with glittering among
them the thyme-leaved paronychia, whose wide, thin bracts look like
silver scales. The food is taken out of the bags, the bottles extracted
from their bed of hay. On this side are the joints, the legs of mutton
stuffed with garlic, the stacks of loaves; on that, the tasteless
chickens, for our grinders to toy with presently, when the edge has
been taken off our appetite. At no great distance, set in a place of
honour, are the Ventoux cheeses spiced with winter savory, the little
pébré d’asé cheeses, flanked by Aries sausages, whose pink flesh is
mottled with cubes of bacon and whole pepper-corns. Over here, in this
corner, are green olives still dripping with brine and black olives
soaking in oil; in that other, Cavaillon melons, some white, some
orange, to suit every taste; and, down there, a jar of anchovies which
make you drink hard and so keep your strength up. Lastly, the bottles
are cooling in the ice-cold water of the trough over there. Have we
forgotten anything? Yes, we have not mentioned the crowning side-dish,
the onions, to be eaten raw with salt. Our two Parisians—for we have
two among us, my fellow-botanists—are at first a little startled by
this very invigorating bill of fare; soon they will be the first to
burst into praises. Are we all ready? Then let us sit down.
And now begins one of those Homeric repasts which mark red-letter days
in one’s life. The first mouthfuls are almost frenzied. Slices of
mutton and chunks of bread follow one another with alarming rapidity.
Each of us, without communicating his apprehensions to the others,
casts an anxious glance at the victuals and asks himself:
‘If this is the way we are going on, shall we have enough for to-night
and to-morrow?’
However, the craving is allayed; we began by devouring in silence, we
now eat and talk. Our apprehensions for the morrow are likewise
relieved; and we give due credit to the man who ordered the menu, who
foresaw this hunger-fit and who arranged to cope with it worthily. The
time has come for us to appreciate the victuals as connoisseurs. One
praises the olives, stabbing them one by one with the point of his
knife; another lauds the anchovies as he cuts up the little
ochre-coloured fishes on his bread; a third waxes enthusiastic about
the sausage; and all with one accord extol the pébré d’asé cheeses, no
larger than the palm of a man’s hand. Pipes and cigars are lit; and we
stretch ourselves on our backs in the grass, with the sun shining down
upon us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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