We had not taken twenty strides, twenty of those strides which one is
not able to control on a steep slope, before all fear of danger was
over. Under our feet was not the empty space of the abyss but the
longed-for ground, the ground covered with small stones, which rolled
down in long torrents. To all of us, this rattling sound, denoting a
firm footing, was heavenly music. In a few minutes we reached the upper
edge of the beeches. Here the darkness was even greater than at the top
of the mountain: we had to stoop to the ground to see where we were
walking. How, in the gloom, were we to find the Jas, buried away in the
dense wood? Two plants, the assiduous haunters of places frequented by
man—the Chenopodium bonus-Henricus, or good-king-Henry, and the common
nettle—served me as a clue. I swept my free hand through the air as I
went along. Each sting that I felt told me of a nettle, in other words,
a landmark. Verlot, in the rear, also lunged about as best he could and
let smarting stings make up for the lack of vision. Our companions had
but little faith in this style of reconnoitring. They spoke of
continuing the furious descent, of going back, if necessary, all the
way to Bédoin. Verlot, more trustful of the botanical insight with
which he himself was so richly endowed, joined me in pursuing our
search, in reassuring the more demoralized and in showing them that it
was possible, by questioning the plants with our hands, to reach our
night’s lodging in spite of the darkness. They gave way to our
arguments; and, not long after, pressing on from one clump of nettles
to another, our party arrived at the Jas.
There we found Delacour, as well as the guide with our luggage,
sheltered betimes from the rain. A blazing fire and a change of clothes
soon restored our wonted cheerfulness. A block of snow, brought from
the valley near by, was hung in a bag in front of the hearth. A bottle
caught the water as the snow melted: this was the cistern for our
evening meal. And the night was spent on a bed of beech-leaves, rubbed
into powder by our predecessors; and they were numerous. Who knows how
many years had passed since that mattress, now a vegetable mould, was
last renewed!
Those who could not sleep were told off to keep up the fire. There was
no lack of hands to stir it, for the smoke, which had no other outlet
than a large hole made by the partial collapse of the roof, filled the
hut with an atmosphere fit to smoke herrings. To obtain a few mouthfuls
of breathable air, we had to seek them in the lower strata, with our
noses almost on the ground. And so we coughed and cursed and poked the
fire, but vainly tried to sleep. We were all afoot by two o’clock in
the morning, ready to climb the highest cone and watch the sunrise. The
rain had stopped, the sky was glorious, promising a perfect day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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