During the ascent some of us felt a sort of seasickness, caused first
by fatigue and secondly by the rarefaction of the air. The barometer
had fallen 5·4 inches; the air which we were breathing had lost a fifth
of its density and was therefore one-fifth less rich in oxygen. Had we
been in good condition, this slight alteration in the air would have
passed unnoticed; but, coming immediately after the exertions of the
day before and a sleepless night, it increased our discomfort. And so
we climbed slowly, with aching legs and panting chests. More than one
of us had to stop and rest after every twentieth step.
At last we were there. We took refuge in the rustic chapel of
Sainte-Croix to take breath and counteract the nipping morning air by a
pull at the gourd, which this time was drained to the last drop. Soon
the sun rose. Ventoux projected to the extreme limits of the horizon
its triangular shadow, whose sides became brightly tinged with violet
by the effect of the diffracted rays. To the south and west stretched
misty plains, where, when the sun was higher in the heavens, we should
be able to make out the Rhône, looking like a silver thread. On the
north and east, under our feet, lay an enormous bank of clouds, a sort
of ocean of cotton-wool, whence peeped, like islands of slag, the dark
summits of the lower mountains. A few tops, with their trailing
glaciers, gleamed in the direction of the Alps.
But botany called our attention and we had to tear ourselves from this
magic spectacle. The time of our ascent, in August, was a little late
in the year; many plants were no longer in flower. Would you do some
really fruitful herborizing? Be there in the first fortnight of July;
above all, be ahead of the grazing herds: where the Sheep has browsed
you will gather none but wretched leavings. While still spared by the
hungry flocks, the top of the Ventoux in July is a literal bed of
flowers; its loose stony surface is studded with them. My memory
recalls, all streaming with the morning dew, those elegant tufts of
Androsace villosa, with its pink-centred white blooms; the Mont-Cenis
violet, spreading its great blue blossoms over the chips of limestone;
the spikenard valerian, which blends the sweet perfume of its flowers
with the offensive odour of its roots; the wedge-leaved globularia,
forming close carpets of bright green dotted with blue capitula; the
Alpine forget-me-not, whose blue rivals that of the skies; the Candolla
candytuft, whose tiny stalk bears a dense head of little white flowers
and goes winding among the loose stones; the opposite-leaved saxifrage
and the musky saxifrage, both of them packed into little dark cushions,
studded in the first case with purple flowers and in the second with
white flowers washed with yellow. When the sun’s rays are hotter, we
shall see fluttering idly from one tuft of blossom to another a
magnificent Butterfly with white wings adorned with four bright-crimson
spots, surrounded with black.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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