England -- Description and travel; Icknield Way (England); Thomas, Edward, 1878-1917
From Wallingford I made for the “Papist Way,” following a series of
paths and roads about a quarter of a mile east of the river. I went
past the little towerless and spireless church of Newnham Murren,
which had a number of crooked, ivy-coloured tombstones, and was itself
covered with ivy, which traveller’s joy was beginning to climb. Then
over Grim’s Ditch, a mile and a half west of the Icknield Way crossing,
I came to Mongewell park, and my path was along a line of huge elms
and sweet limes. On my left, the main road and its telegraph wires
ran bordered with charlock along the top of a low ridge above these
meadows. From North Stoke there was a good road. I turned aside to the
church, but found what was better, a big range of tiled, thatched sheds
and barns extending on either side of my path, with a cattle-yard in
the midst full of dazzling straw and richly-stinking cow dung, and a
big black sow lying on it like a recumbent statue on a huge pedestal.
Swifts were shrieking above and chickens clucking in the corners.
From the road the tiled church and the thatched barn fell into line,
and seemed one, especially as the farm pigeons were perched on the
ridges of both. On a corn-rick behind I saw the figure of a sheep on a
weather-vane. This road went alongside hedgeless barley on the left,
over which I could see the bare, low hills between me and the Icknield
Way, and far beyond them the wooded hills about Nuffield and Nettlebed;
on the right there was hay to the river; there was succory on the
roadside, scabious, knapweed, rest-harrow, and long grass.
To reach the ferry at Little Stoke I turned off to the right under
elm trees and was rowed across. The boy told me that the road up from
the ferry was called Asylum Road, there being a big, red lunatic
asylum on the right-hand side of it, just as it crossed the Reading
and Wallingford road. Only beyond this crossing is it marked “Papist
Way” on the map. I have not discovered why it was named so, for the
name suggests too late a date to be connected with the monastery which
lay near where the road reaches the Great Western railway station at
Cholsey. It points to the Astons, Blewbury, and Upton, and may at one
time have formed part of a road running through them to Wantage;
unless this road is rather a protraction of the road from South Stoke
and Moulsford, which may, however, have joined the “Papist Way” at
Lollingdon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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