England -- Description and travel; Icknield Way (England); Thomas, Edward, 1878-1917
to form highways of great length, like that trodden by Launcelot, “far
o’er the long backs of the bushless downs” to Camelot. It were easy
to take such a route to-day from anywhere in Berkshire or Hampshire,
travelling high and away from cities, except cities of the dead like
Avebury, far from towns and villages, through Wiltshire into Somerset
or Dorset, on roads which are altogether turf or have so goodly a
border of grass and blossom that the wayfarer need never touch the hard
white grit which is the same on a metalled road whether in London or in
wild country.
[Illustration: The Ridgeway, near Blowingstone Hill, Berkshire.]
Down from the realm-long bridge of islands above the world the
traveller descended to cities of men. Thus Sir Launcelot after long
riding in a great forest came into a low country of fair rivers and
meadows and saw before him the long bridge and the three pavilions on
it, “of silk and sendal of divers hue.” Thus Sir Bevis of Hampton,
cheated of his patrimony by a cruel mother and keeping sheep on the
Downs, looked and saw below him the town and the tower that should have
been his. Thus Cobbett, looking from Portsdown Hill above Portsmouth,
saw the sea for the first time and the English fleet riding at anchor
at Spithead and his heart “was inflated with national pride,” and
though he had walked thirty miles that day he slept not a moment,
but rose at daylight and offered himself for the sea on board the
_Pegasus_. Thus we descend on Winchester or Salisbury out of the hills,
glad to get there what we want as we have for many days gladly wanted
what we could get. It has been, let us say, a day that should be
spring, and in the dark, wet copses there were thousands of primroses.
All day the wind, and often rain and wind together, roared in the
trees. The pale flowers were soaked and frayed and speckled with dust
from the trees, and they hung down or were broken from their soft
stalks. But the high land and the neighbouring sky exalt us. Even the
sight of these tender-blubbering petals ruined in the drenched grass
was pleasant. We should have liked better to see them unspoiled and
wide in the sun; but we did not wish them to be so, and their distress
did but add to the glory of the storm and to our defiance, just as did
the cowering of birds, of bowed trees, of whole woods, under the wild,
shadowy swoop of the mist and rain, and the valleys below us humbled,
their broad fields, their upthrust churches and clustered villages
overwhelmed and blotted out, and everything annihilated save the wind,
the rain, the streaming road, and the vigorous limbs and glowing brain
and what they created. Not that we did not welcome freely the minutes
of dimly shining stillness that were as a secluded garden in a city,
when the storm paused; for then we drank in the blue sky and the dark
revealed tracts of plain and hill that lay stunned and astonished like
a dreamer opening his eyelids after tumultuous dreams; we drank them
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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