England -- Description and travel; Icknield Way (England); Thomas, Edward, 1878-1917
As it passed the head of the coombe the road was six hundred
feet up, going a little north of westwards between sheep on the left
and corn on the right. It was two or three miles or more from the
villages on the north, Moulsford, Cholsey, the Astons, and Blewbury,
and two or three hundred feet above them; it was almost as far away
from the Wantage road, and as far above it. The villages on the south
were nearer, but not within a mile--Aldworth, the Comptons, and East
Ilsley. It gained a hedge near Warren Farm, but was a rough way, now
wide, now narrow, among the hazel, brier, elder, and nettle. Sometimes
there was an ash in the hedge, and once a line of spindly elms followed
it round a curve. It was high, but not yet free among these hedges.
Then it descended, deeply worn and rough, to where a signpost marked
roads to Aldworth and Compton on the left, Cholsey and Wallingford
on the right. Then all was open country, mostly turf, carved by many
trackways and with trees, as a rule, only to shelter the thatched,
solitary farm-house and barns, or to make a clump and landmark at
a summit where there was a tumulus, as on Churn Hill. The road was
scattered in pieces over the open turf among thorn bushes and alongside
a Scotch fir clump, as it went down towards Churn station. These tracks
were green with a central white one, and that had green banks and a
few thorns. On reaching the road from Moulsford to East Ilsley my way
seemed to be continued by one passing Chance Farm and keeping on the
north side of the hills through an uninhabited hollow among downs which
are bare of everything but grass, Churn railway station, and a farm,
except when dotted with soldiers’ tents. But there was now a little to
the south of this a clear and unbroken high ridge extending westwards
into Wiltshire, and this the Ridgeway undoubtedly followed: only the
connection between my way over Roden Downs and the higher ridge was no
longer a direct one. The connecting road was that from Moulsford to
Ilsley, and along it I had to turn round west and even south to gain
the ridge, where the Ridgeway left it at right angles to go north-west.
Hedges no longer bounded either side of the broad turf track. It was
as free as the blue paths in the snowy heavens. It looked down upon
everything but the clouds, and not seldom on them in the early morning
or in rain. On its left the downward slope was broken and very gradual,
so that it was far rarer to see a church tower like Ilsley within a
mile than a ridge of woods five miles off or a bare range that might be
twenty. It was already higher than the Icknield Way at Telegraph Hill;
it had climbed out of choice, and it would descend only of necessity.
On its right the slope was far steeper, and sometimes a little way from
the foot lay the villages; sometimes the land rose again in several
rolls this way and that, and the nearest village would be beyond the
last of them, three or four miles away. Either corn or pure turf and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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