England -- Description and travel; Icknield Way (England); Thomas, Edward, 1878-1917
between the wired fences of the downland pasture. Here stand cows
who do not often see a pencil sharpened. Pewits wheel over and before
and behind; all along the high course of the road the pewits cry and
wheel. The road is at first rutted, but is soon a green smooth track
on the highest land, skirting the upper ends of coombes dappled dusky
gold by gorse, and commanding bare downland on the left and wooded
hills on the right, and looking along a great bottom to the church
tower of Mere, and Mere’s beautiful “Long Hill,” and the wide-arboured
vale stretching away to the long ridge of Dorset. It is a high way and
a proud way. After crossing an ancient ditch it is labelled “British
Trackway,” and ahead it is seen going between a wire fence and a dark
line of tussocks. Then it is divided into three or four parallel
terraces grooved by wheels, but with a lark’s nest in the green rut. It
crosses the Mere road as two hollow ways side by side, but in a little
while is only a green track with single thorns on the left. Here is
the twenty-first milestone from Sarum, the ninety-ninth from London,
inscribed 1750, and it is called the London Drove Road; it is still in
sight of Alfred’s Tower, now protruding above White Sheet ramparts. In
one place it is so wide that the milestone stands out in the middle,
like a traveller asleep or turned to stone among mole-heaps that have
blotted the signs of other travellers. On the left, as far as the main
Wincanton road, part of the track is embanked; entering the hard motor
road to Amesbury and London, the old way is outlined chiefly by the
thorns of Old Willoughby Hedge on the left. The road going hedgeless
across the downland is but the thin backbone of the old green way. For
a time the line of thorns diverges, and then, soon after the crossing
of the Warminster road, they come slanting from the right to meet the
road and cross it just before another milestone. Hereby are three
milestones on different roads, all close together, which has caused
the easy winning of merry wagers to run past three milestones in three
minutes. The drove crosses several roads going to Hindon, as a broad
green track with or without a hedge, marked by its greater profusion of
daisies and its paleness and lack of tussocks. Still there are pewits,
and somewhere not far away a Pewit Castle. It is joined again by the
main Amesbury road beyond Cold Berwick Hill, but presently deserted,
the busier white way going boldly off over the ridge, and down to
the Wylye River and up again on to Salisbury Plain by Yarnbury, and
so past Stonehenge to Amesbury. The green road winds along the south
slope of the ridge. Now two lines of thorns show the course far ahead,
or the white weals of an ascent are seen; now gorse encroaches on it,
and at a crossway corned-beef tins and grey embers mark an encampment
of nomads. It passes thickets of thorn and wayfaring trees burying an
old milestone to Sarum. Turf or corn lies on either hand or on both.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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