England -- Description and travel; Icknield Way (England); Thomas, Edward, 1878-1917
“I used to be very fond of walking myself,” he said, changing the
subject. “And I still do a lot of it. It is very good for the health. I
suppose you are walking for your health.”
As he perceived that I was not in business he assumed that I was taking
a dose of walking, one of the most expensive medicines, and, as he
believed, one of the best. I left him behind me in Thetford.
This was a most pleasant ancient town, built of flints, full of turns
and corners and yards. It smelt of lime trees and of brewing. At the
east edge was a green “Castle Hill” and a surrounding rampart without
a castle, and between the ramparts, round about the hill, a level
green where people rest or play in sunshine or under elm, ash, and
sycamore. Beside the steep artificial mound, so huge and uncouth, men
mowing the grass looked smaller than ever, the children playing more
beautiful, and both more transitory. The dark hill seemed a monster
watching them at their play and work, as if some day it would swallow
them up. It was like a personification of stupid enormous time. Yet
this ponderous symbol did not spoil the pleasantness of the grass and
trees and the green hill and the little town, but rather increased it;
and I walked backwards and forwards lest I should forget that I had
been to Thetford, a place sometimes burnt, sometimes fortified, by
the Danes, and once a bishop’s see. These things made the old brewery
seem older, the lime trees sweeter, the high-walled lanes darker, as
I walked about. One of the lanes, Castle Lane, which goes through the
ramparts of the castle, is possibly part of the Icknield Way. As you
stand at the east edge of the town, a little past the Castle hill, a
lane comes slanting from the north-east over the railway to an open,
dusty place, at a meeting of five ways, a “five went way.” This lane,
now only a mile long to where it is cut short by the Kilverstone and
Brettenham road and having no obvious continuation to the north-east,
is the Green Lane, or Clover Lane, which has been suggested as a
Norfolk portion of the Icknield Way. At the south end of it, in 1870,
were found remains of Celtic and Roman pottery. Castle Lane takes up
the line of Green Lane and leads through the east edge of the town
towards the rivers. Before leaving the town by it, I noticed on the
right hand a very strange fish on a signboard, a very curly fish, with
curly whiskers, three curled plumes on his back, and a curled tail; and
he was himself curled and boldly painted withal; but whether this fish
or the landlord was named Mullett I have forgotten. My apparent road
took me southward over the Thet, and then the Ouse, by two low bridges
called the Nuns’ Bridges. Chestnuts darkened the clear water of Thet.
Between the two rivers was only a narrow space of grass and buttercups.
Here, and a little east towards Place Farm, is the gravel which fitted
this spot for a ford. Beyond the Ouse the main road goes straight away
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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