England -- Description and travel; Icknield Way (England); Thomas, Edward, 1878-1917
As I entered Dunstable there was already a touch of night in the
light, and it fell with a sad blessing upon the low-towered church
and the sheep grazing in the churchyard up above the road on my left.
The crossing of the Icknield Way and Watling Street makes Dunstable.
Watling Street was wider and had the town hall, the post office, the
bigger shops, and the chief inns. The Icknield Way, known first as
Church Street, then as West Street, was the more rustic, humble, and
informal, and beyond the crossing it had trees by its side; and this
seemed natural and just. It had become thoroughly suburban before
leaving the town and coming to the smooth high downs on the left, where
children were playing and girls walking about above a field of barley
and charlock beside the road. On my right there was a wide border of
level down turf and no hedge between it and the corn. The downs, or I
should say the Chiltern Hills, proceeded majestically southward, but
six or seven miles away advanced somewhat to the east, half clothed in
woods, until the bare Beacon Hill stopped steep and abrupt above a high
plateau of cornland which fell away into a broad, wooded lowland on my
right. Round this Beacon I could see that my road would bend; I thought
I could see the ledge it must follow. In that lower land on my right
there were several rises. Such was the smooth, easy sweep of Toternhoe,
close to Luton; such the wooded heave upon which rose the dark,
noble tower of Edlesborough Church; and such the terraced hill near
Edlesborough, with a few thorns on the slopes between the terraces, and
at its foot a long, neat orchard of late plums or “prunes.” The broad,
wayside strip on the right hand sometimes showed the old course of my
way much below the level of the present road; and after Well Head this
lower course was beyond and below the modern hedge. On the left, at
Well Head, I noticed a little hill on this side of the main ridge very
prettily terraced, with thorns on the slopes between the terraces. At
Well Head a deep, smooth-sided cleft winds away to Dolittle Mill, with
the first waters of the Ouse. A similar cleft a mile or so beyond, at
the Cross Waters, close to the entrance into Buckinghamshire, carries
water to the mills of Eaton Bray. As I came out of Dunstable I thought
there could be nothing there equal to the sweep of the downs before
me, ending in the wooded Ivinghoe Hills and the Beacon. But when I had
gone more than half-way towards the end of the sweep I looked back and
saw that the downs behind me were equal to those I was approaching, and
even advanced a little out of the straight like the others, ending also
in a promontory above Dunstable. The air was now still and the earth
growing dark and already very quiet. But the sky was light and its
clouds of utmost whiteness were very wildly and even fiercely shaped,
so that it seemed the playground of powerful and wanton spirits knowing
nothing of earth. And this dark earth appeared a small though also a
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