The Industrial Arts in SpainRiaño, Juan F. (Juan Facundo)
History
The Industrial Arts in Spain
Riaño, Juan F. (Juan Facundo)
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History; Pottery -- Spain -- History
The artistic industry of silk manufactures which was initiated in Spain
by the Arabs, continued to flourish during the Middle Ages and a great
part of the Renaissance. Malaga and Almeria were important centres, but
later on this industry was chiefly centred at Granada. The silk fabrics
made at Seville, Toledo, Murcia and Valencia were much esteemed. The
Moorish style of ornamentation in embroideries and stuffs must soon have
fallen into disuse. Owing to the materials of similar kinds imported
from Italy, France, Flanders, and other countries, these manufactures
were imitated to a great extent, as may be gathered by the immense
number of specimens which are still to be met with in Spanish churches.
The cathedral of Toledo is quite a museum of objects of this kind, but
all the textiles there are woven in the European manner.
The Moorish style in stuffs was preserved at Granada longer than in any
other town in Spain. In 1502, ten years after its conquest by the
Christians, we find it stated in the "Voyage of Philip le Beau," the
father of the Emperor Charles V.: "Grenade est fort marchande,
principallement de soyes, car les marchans y achattent la pluspart des
soyes que l'on maine en Italie, pour faires les draps de soyes. Le lieu
où on les vendt est nommé le Sacquatin. Auprès de ce lieu est une place
appellée l'Allecasserie, où on vendt les draps de soyes ouvrés à la
Moresque, qui sont moult beaus pour la multitude des couleurs et la
diversité des ouvrages, et en font une grande marchandise." ["Collect.
de Voyages, par M. Gachard, Bruxelles," 1870, i. 205.] Navagiero, who
visited Spain twenty years after, tells us in his "Viaggio fatto in
Spagna" [Vinegia 1563, p. 21]: "One enters a place called Alcaiceria
which is enclosed within two doors, and full of alleys where the Moors
sell silks and embroideries of every kind" [p. 29]: "All sorts of cloths
of silks are made there; the silks made at Granada are much esteemed all
over Spain; they are not so good as those which come from Italy. There
are several looms, but they do not yet know how to work them well; they
make good taffetas, sarcenet, and silk serges. The velvets are not bad,
but those that are made at Valencia are better in quality."
Dr. Rock considers the following specimens in the Kensington Museum to
have been made at Granada: Nos. 26, 27, 60, 65, 73, 128, 161, 166.
Larruga tells us in his "Memorias" [vol. vii. 205], that the silk
manufactures established at Toledo consumed in 1480 about 450,000 pounds
of silk: they decreased about forty years afterwards. In the ordinances
issued from that town in 1494, which were confirmed by the Emperor
Charles V. we find that the following stuffs were made at Toledo:
"Stuffs of gold and silver which are made in the same manner as satin.
"Satins woven with gold.
"Satins brocaded with silk and gold or silver flowers.
"Silver serges with double filigree.
"Silver and gold materials, which are made like _gorgoran_ or serge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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