The Industrial Arts in SpainRiaño, Juan F. (Juan Facundo)
History
The Industrial Arts in Spain
Riaño, Juan F. (Juan Facundo)
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History; Pottery -- Spain -- History
It is not easy to give a clear idea of the history of the manufacture of
ancient Spanish lace; the principal reason being that this industry was
carried out by private persons, who never formed themselves into Guilds
or corporations, as was the case during the middle ages and Renaissance
period with those who devoted their time to other arts and industries.
We find in the Royal Ordinances constant references to weavers, silver
and goldsmiths, tailors, etc., but in none do we find the manufacture of
lace mentioned. The most important Ordinances relating to Spanish
industries are those published at Toledo and Seville in the 15th and
16th centuries, and at Granada in the 16th and 17th centuries, and in
none of them do we find lace even alluded to. In the innumerable laws
which appeared from the middle ages until the 18th century for the
object of reforming costumes and checking their excessive luxury no
mention is made of lace; when it is referred to, it is only when
_puntas_ or _entredoses_, edgings or insertions, are mentioned in which
gold and silver are introduced. We never find any allusion in
contemporary writers to the fine heavy thread lace, sometimes called
Point d'Espagne or Point de Venise, the origin of which has been a
source of so much doubt to collectors of the present day.
The only thing which we can do therefore at the present, until this
subject is more fully investigated, is to assert that lace of different
kinds has been made from the very earliest times in Spain, and do our
best to classify the different kinds by the differences which we observe
in those of other localities.
Father Fr. Marcos Antonio de Campos in his "Microcosmia y Gobierno
Universal del Hombre Cristiano," [Barcelona, 1592, p. 225,] says: "I
will not be silent and fail to mention the time lost these last years in
the manufacture of _cadenetas_, a work of thread combined with gold and
silver; this extravagance and excess reached such a point that 100 and
1000 of ducats were spent in this work, which, besides destroying the
eyesight, wasting away the lives, and rendering consumptive the women
who worked it, and preventing them from spending their time with more
advantage to their souls, a few ounces of thread and years of time, were
wasted with so unsatisfactory a result. I ask myself, after this fancy
has passed away, will the lady or gentleman find that the chemises that
cost them 50 ducats, or the _basquiña_ (petticoats) that cost them 300,
are worth half their price, which certainly is the case with other
objects in which the material itself is worth more." This quotation is
interesting as proving that lace was made during the 16th century. The
friar, in following the prevalent fashion of preaching against luxury
and extravagance, shows us that this industry must have reached to a
great height in order to be an object of censure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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