The Industrial Arts in SpainRiaño, Juan F. (Juan Facundo)
History
The Industrial Arts in Spain
Riaño, Juan F. (Juan Facundo)
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History; Pottery -- Spain -- History
Many interesting details have reached us of the costume of a Spanish
lady in the 17th century. We will copy the description given by Madame
d'Aunoy in her "Voyage d'Espagne," Lyon 1628. "Under the vertingale of
black taffety they wear a dozen or more petticoats, one finer than the
other, of rich stuffs trimmed with lace of gold and silver to the
girdle. They wear at all times a white garment called sabenqua; it is
made of the finest English lace, and four ells in compass. I have seen
some worth 500 or 600 crowns, and so great is their vanity, they would
rather have one of those lace subenquas than a dozen coarse ones, and
either lie in bed till it is washed, or else dress themselves without
any, which they frequently enough do." A number of portraits exist in
the Spanish galleries, especially by Velasquez and Carreño, in which
these extravagant costumes are fully portrayed, but in very few Spanish
portraits of the seventeenth century does thread lace of the kind known
as Point d'Espagne or de Venise ever appear. Mrs. Palliser, in her
interesting "History of Lace," p. 80, quotes a vast number of
descriptions of these gold and silver laces. The celebrated bed at
Versailles, the interior lacings of the carriages, the costumes of the
gentlemen and ladies of court, and wedding dresses, were all trimmed
with this silver and gold lace, either made in Spain, or called Point
d'Espagne.
We copy again Madame d'Aunoy's description of a Spanish bed. "It is of
gold and green damask lined with silver brocade and trimmed with point
of Spain. Her sheets were laced round with an English lace half an ell
deep. The young Princess of Monteleon bade her maids bring in her
wedding clothes. They brought in thirty silver baskets so heavy four
women could only carry one basket: the linen and lace were not inferior
to the rest." Beckford, in describing the apartment of a Spanish lady,
writes: "Her bed was of the richest blue velvet trimmed with point
lace." Aarsens de Sommerdyck in his "Voyage d'Espagne," [Paris, 1665,]
writes, in describing the costume worn by the men: "Leurs collets ou
cravates sont de grandes pointes, qui sans doute coustent beaucoup, bien
qu'elles ne paroissent pas belles. La mode en est presque la mesme qu'en
France, l'ayant prise de la princesse de Carignan quand elle estoit à
Madrid, dont elles les nomment Valonas à la Carignan." In the
interesting "Journal du Voyage d'Espagne," Paris, 1669, l'Abbé Bertaut
tells us that on the 15th of October, 1659, on the occasion of his
embassy to Madrid, the king of Spain sent eight postilions, and forty
post-horses, the saddles and bridles of eight of which were covered with
gold and silver lace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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