CHAPTER XI. Getting used to it--No Soap--Bill of Fare, Table d'hote--“An American Sir”--A Curious Discovery--The “Pilgrim” Bird--Strange Companionship --A Grave of the Living--A Long Captivity--Some of Dumas' Heroes--Dungeon of the Famous “Iron Mask.” CHAPTER XII. A Holiday Flight through France--Summer Garb of the Landscape--Abroad on the Great Plains--Peculiarities of French Cars--French Politeness American Railway Officials--“Twenty Minutes to Dinner!”--Why there are no Accidents--The “Old Travellers”--Still on the Wing--Paris at Last----French Order and Quiet--Place of the Bastile--Seeing the Sights --A Barbarous Atrocity--Absurd Billiards CHAPTER XIII. More Trouble--Monsieur Billfinger--Re-Christening the Frenchman--In the Clutches of a Paris Guide--The International Exposition--Fine Military Review--Glimpse of the Emperor Napoleon and the Sultan of Turkey CHAPTER XIV. The Venerable Cathedral of Notre-Dame--Jean Sanspeur's Addition --Treasures and Sacred Relics--The Legend of the Cross--The Morgue--The Outrageious 'Can-Can'--Blondin Aflame--The Louvre Palace--The Great Park --Showy Pageantry--Preservation of Noted Things CHAPTER XV. French National Burying--Ground--Among the Great Dead--The Shrine of Disappointed Love--The Story of Abelard and Heloise--“English Spoken Here”--“American Drinks Compounded Here”--Imperial Honors to an American--The Over-estimated Grisette--Departure from Paris--A Deliberate Opinion Concerning the Comeliness of American Women CHAPTER XVI. Versailles--Paradise Regained--A Wonderful Park--Paradise Lost --Napoleonic Strategy CHAPTER XVII. War--The American Forces Victorious--” Home Again”--Italy in Sight The “City of Palaces”--Beauty of the Genoese Women--The “Stub-Hunters” --Among the Palaces--Gifted Guide--Church Magnificence--“Women not Admitted”--How the Genoese Live--Massive Architecture--A Scrap of Ancient History--Graves for 60,000 CHAPTER XVIII. Flying Through Italy--Marengo--First Glimpse of the Famous Cathedral --Description of some of its Wonders--A Horror Carved in Stone----An Unpleasant Adventure--A Good Man--A Sermon from the Tomb--Tons of Gold and Silver--Some More Holy Relics--Solomon's Temple CHAPTER XIX “Do You Wiz zo Haut can be?”--La Scala--Petrarch and Laura--Lucrezia Borgia--Ingenious Frescoes--Ancient Roman Amphitheatre--A Clever Delusion--Distressing Billiards--The Chief Charm of European Life--An Italian Bath--Wanted: Soap--Crippled French--Mutilated English--The Most Celebrated Painting in the World--Amateur Raptures--Uninspired Critics --Anecdote--A Wonderful Echo--A Kiss for a Franc