The Inns and Taverns of "Pickwick": With Some Observations on Their Other Associations — John Shaqi
The Inns and Taverns of "Pickwick": With Some Observations on Their Other AssociationsMatz, B. W. (Bertram Waldrom)
History
The Inns and Taverns of "Pickwick": With Some Observations on Their Other Associations
Matz, B. W. (Bertram Waldrom)
Dickens, Charles, 1812-1870. Pickwick papers; Taverns (Inns) -- England
That is the story of the association of the "Leather Bottle," Cobham,
with The Pickwick Papers, which has spread its fame to the uttermost
parts of the world. That is the chief reason why in certain seasons
of the year the "Leather Bottle" and Cobham are visited by thousands
of admirers of the novelist, and also why the ideal Kentish village
has become a magnet to lovers of England's rural lanes and arable
fields; but the charm of it all is that when it is reached both it
and the inn are to be found exactly as Dickens so faithfully described
them many years ago.
The inn is just an inn; a commodious village ale-house; that is the
best description of it. Its picturesque exterior, with its hanging
sign bearing a portrait of Mr. Pickwick in the act of addressing the
club, and the legend, "Dickens's Old Pickwick Leather Bottle," and
its red-tiled roof, its small windows with their old-fashioned
shutters, is no less quaint and attractive than its old-time interior.
Its original sign--the Leather Bottle--hangs in the tiny bar which is on
the immediate right of the passage, and behind a glass window, looking
as unlike a bar as anything imaginable. From this curious little
receptacle refreshment for travellers and villagers is dispensed in
stone mugs embellished with the sign of the inn; and its "low-roofed
room" is at the end of the passage as Mr. Pickwick found it, with its
oak beams across the ceiling adding to its picturesqueness. In this
room the "high back leather-cushioned chairs" are still to be seen,
together with a grandfather clock and other antique pieces of
furniture in thorough keeping with tradition.
There, too, is the great "variety of old portraits" which decorated
the wall in Mr. Pickwick's time, with every other available inch
of wall space now covered with portraits of the novelist and his
memorable characters, pictures of scenes from his books, Dickensian
relics and knicknacks, either associated with the book which brought
it fame or with other books of the famous Boz. In a word, it is
a veritable Dickens museum, in which every lover of the novelist
lingers with pleasure and amazement, oblivious of the fact that
possibly his tea is getting cold.
Here the visitor can have his meal as did Mr. Tupman, not perhaps
in such solitude, for the "Leather Bottle" to-day is often a busy
centre for pedestrians from the neighbouring villages, and cyclists
and motorists from far-distant towns and cities.
Upstairs, overlooking the churchyard, is the identical front bedroom
where Mr. Pickwick spent the night, and where he sat reading long
into the early and eerie hours of the morning. The present landlord
is a true Dickensian in knowledge and character, and endeavours to
make everybody comfortable and welcome, no matter who he be. A
glance at the visitors' book will show how the inn has been sought
out by every grade of society from all over the world. Indeed, we
doubt if Shakespeare's birthplace can surpass this inn in popularity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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