They can be stored anywhere that is not too damp and not too much
exposed to winter cold. Dry cold does not hurt them; but if they are wet
through and through and then freeze, they will crack. In constant
dampness, too, saltpetre and other salts enter them and they crumble. In
clean water they do not undergo any changes.
I will describe the storage of etched and designed stones later.
If the stones are to be used after being stored in any damp place, they
should be kept for several days in a temperate and dry place till they
have dried thoroughly, as otherwise they are not easy to work in any
style. This is not necessary if their place of storage has been
perfectly dry.
CHAPTER II
OF INK, CRAYON, ETCHING, AND COLOR
I
CHEMICAL INK
The first and most necessary material in a stone printery is the
so-called chemical ink, which would better be named fatty or alkaline
ink, since it is a mixture of fatty and resinous materials with alkali.
It is used partly to write or draw directly on the stone, partly to
cover the stone as with an etching surface, and partly to transfer to
the stone from paper.
The purpose of this ink is, first, to cause a mass of oily, fatty
substances to soak into the pores of the stone and also make certain
portions of its surface fatty; and secondly, to resist acids according
to requirement in such degree that the stone shall remain fat where
needed, that thus the design, applied with this ink, shall be left
untouched by acid.
I have remarked before that countless different mixtures can be made,
most of which fulfill the purpose. But there enters the consideration
that it must be an ink easy to use, that handsome work may be done by
the artists with perfect ease.
Various mixtures answer this purpose very well, and I have found
sometimes that men could work better with mixtures made by themselves
than they could with those that I used for my own work. Perhaps this was
a matter of imagination, or the real reason lay in the pen-cutting, it
being well known that one man can use a pen that is absolutely worthless
for another.
I myself have tested the values of some mixtures so thoroughly that I
can declare almost positively that it will not be easy to find better
ones for any purposes. I will describe these fully.
First of all, stone-ink is divided into two great classes. One is
thicker, being used for drawing on stone. The other is more fluid, being
used for transfers.
The following mixtures of the first kind are the best:--
(1) White Wax 8 parts
Soap 2 parts
Lampblack 1 part
This ink does not really serve for writing or drawing on the stone, but
is used mostly for coating those places that are to be protected from
the etching fluid. If this ink is needed in a thickened form, the wax
should be heated in an iron pan till it burns and the combustion should
continue till one half of it is consumed. The longer it burns, the
harder will be the remnant.
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