The Invention of the Sewing MachineCooper, Grace Rogers
History
The Invention of the Sewing Machine
Cooper, Grace Rogers
Sewing machines -- History
By this adjustment the extent of the vertical travel of the impelling
pawl was regulated to control the length of the stitch. A spring catch
kept the ratchet wheel in place at the end of each forward rotation of
the wheel by the pawl. A roller placed over the endless belt at its
middle roller pressed the cloth onto the wire points. A curved piece of
metal was bent over and down upon the top of the belt so that the cloth,
as it was sewed, was carried toward and against the piece by the belt.
The cloth rose upon and over the piece and was separated from the
points. When the machine was in motion the cloth was carried forward,
passed under the needle, was stitched, and finally, passed the separator
and off the belt. A vertically reciprocating, straight, eye-pointed
needle, a horizontal supporting surface, and a yielding cloth presser
were all used, but none were claimed as part of the patent. These were
later specifically claimed in reissues of this patent. Bachelder's one
specific claim, the endless feed belt, was not limited to belt feeding
only. As he explained in the patent, a revolving table or a cylinder
might be substituted.
[Illustration: Figure 19.--BACHELDER'S PATENT MODEL, 1849. (Smithsonian
photo 45572).]
Bachelder did not manufacture machines, but his patent was sold in the
mid-1850s to I. M. Singer.[37] It eventually became one of the most
important patents to be contributed to the "Sewing-Machine Combination,"
a patent pool, which is discussed in more detail on pages 41 and 42.
While new ideas and inventors continued to provide the answers to some
of the sewing-machine problems, Elias Howe began a series of patent
suits to sustain the rights that he felt were his. Since his interest
had never been in constructing machines for sale, it was absolutely
essential for Howe to protect his royalty rights in order to realize any
return from his patent. He was reported[38] to have supervised the
construction of 14 sewing machines at a shop[39] on Gold Street in New
York toward the close of 1850. Sworn contemporary testimony indicates
that the machines were of no practical use.[40] Elias stated, in his
application for his patent extension,[41] that he made only one machine
in 1850-51. In 1852 he advertised[42] territorial rights and machines,
but apparently did not realize any financial success until he sold a
half interest in his patent to George Bliss in November 1852.[43] Bliss
later began manufacturing machines that he initially sold as "Howe's
Patent"; however, these machines were substantially different from the
basic Howe machine.
[Illustration: Figure 20.--BLODGETT & LEROW SEWING MACHINE, 1850, as
manufactured by A. Bartholf, New York; the serial number of the machine
is 19. At right, an original brass plate from the same type of machine
with needle arm and presser foot and arm, serial number 119; the plate,
however, does not fit the machine correctly. (Smithsonian photo 48440-D;
brass plate: 48440-K.)]
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