The Invention of the Sewing MachineCooper, Grace Rogers
History
The Invention of the Sewing Machine
Cooper, Grace Rogers
Sewing machines -- History
For thousands of years, the only means of stitching two pieces of fabric
together had been with a common needle and a length of thread. The
thread might be of silk, flax, wool, sinew, or other fibrous material.
The needle, whether of bone, silver, bronze, steel, or some other metal,
was always the same in design--a thin shaft with a point at one end and
a hole or eye for receiving the thread at the other end. Simple as it
was, the common needle (fig. 2) with its thread-carrying eye had been an
ingenious improvement over the sharp bone, stick, or other object used
to pierce a hole through which a lacing then had to be passed.[1] In
addition to utilitarian stitching for such things as the making of
garments and household furnishings, the needle was also used for
decorative stitching, commonly called embroidery. And it was for this
purpose that the needle, the seemingly perfect tool that defied
improvement, was first altered for ease of stitching and to increase
production.
One of the forms that the needle took in the process of adaptation was
that of the fine steel hook. Called an _aguja_ in Spain, the hook was
used in making a type of lace known as _punto de aguja_. During the 17th
century after the introduction of chainstitch embroideries from India,
this hook was used to produce chainstitch designs on a net ground.[2]
The stitch and the fine hook to make it were especially adaptable to
this work. By the 18th century the hook had been reduced to needle size
and inserted into a handle, and was used to chainstitch-embroider woven
fabrics.[3] In France the hook was called a crochet and was sharpened to
a point for easy entry into the fabric (fig. 3). For stitching, the
fabric was held taut on a drum-shaped frame. The hooked needle pierced
the fabric, caught the thread from below the surface and pulled a loop
to the top. The needle reentered the fabric a stitch-length from the
first entry and caught the thread again, pulling a second loop through
the first to which it became enchained. This method of embroidery
permitted for the first time the use of a continuous length of thread.
At this time the chainstitch was used exclusively for decorative
embroidery, and from the French name for drum--the shape of the frame
that held the fabric--the worked fabric came to be called tambour
embroidery. The crochet[4] or small hooked needle soon became known as
a tambour needle.
In 1755 a new type of needle was invented for producing embroidery
stitches. This needle had to pass completely through the fabric two
times (a through-and-through motion) for every stitch. The inventor was
Charles F. Weisenthal, a German mechanic living in London who was
granted British patent 701 for a two-pointed needle (fig. 4). The
invention was described in the patent as follows:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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