The Irish Penny Journal, Vol. 1 No. 17, October 24, 1840Various
History
The Irish Penny Journal, Vol. 1 No. 17, October 24, 1840
Various
Ireland -- Periodicals
Having received what is technically called
a “cut” or two, it is returned to the gig mill to be “struck,” that is,
“raised,” or submitted to the action of the gig in a dry state, and it
then goes back again to the shear loft, and receives three or four more
cuts on the face. It is then passed to the “burlers,” women who pick
out all motes that have accidentally clung to or become embodied in the
cloth, with steel pincers having very sharp points called “burling irons.”
If it is to be finished by being napped, that is, to have the surface
covered with little knots, as petershams and women’s cloaking, it is
taken to the “napping engines,” where it is submitted to the action of a
board curiously covered with sand, so firmly attached as not to wear off
for a considerable time; this is wedged down upon the cloth, and then set
in motion, describing small circles whilst the cloth is forcibly drawn
from under it by a strong roller, and thus the whole surface is covered
over with little knots; having been passed through the napping engine
three or four times, it is returned to the shear loft to get one or two
cuts on the back, thence again to the napping engine, where it receives a
final run or two, and is passed to the wareroom to be measured and made
up.
But if it is to be finished as a cloth, instead of the napping-engine
it is sent to the steam-brushing mill, where it is passed against a
revolving cylinder covered with brushes and teasles alternately, and
working within a case, into which a stream of steam rushes constantly;
thence it passes to another machine nearly similar, but having brushes
only. Having undergone this process for several hours, it is dried, taken
again to the shear loft and properly cut, then carefully “burled” and
brushed, again to the “knife,” where it is “backed,” that is, cut or
shorn on the back, and then brushed again, preparatory to being placed in
the press, in which it is arranged in neat folds, with thin pasteboard
called “presspaper” between the folds, and hot metal plates at intervals.
The press is then screwed down, and after a proper lapse of time the
cloth is taken out, the folds altered in order that every part may be
properly pressed, and again screwed down. It then goes to the brush-mill
for the last time, from whence the measurer at length gets it to make up.
Fine cloth sometimes undergoes another process called “singeing,” in
which it is passed over hot cylinders; but as our object is merely to
give a general idea of the complicated processes of the manufacture to
our readers, and not to make them at once masters of the business, we do
not think it necessary to go into very minute detail. The entire length
of time occupied may be estimated at from one to nearly two months.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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