There is hardly a pleasanter spot in the island from which to explore
its beauties than Peel. Situated on its west coast, at a point
sufficiently equidistant from its north and south extremities, and
as much out of reach of the corrupting influence of Douglas as any
centre well can be in an island of such insignificant dimensions,
Peel is not merely an admirable centre from which to make excursions,
but in itself is one of the quaintest and most picturesque of little
towns. Castletown, in fact, is its only possible Manx rival, and
Castletown ranks below it by a very long interval. The inland parts
of the town, no doubt, are dull, as new parts of most towns are apt
to be everywhere; but the ancient nucleus of the place, at the exact
point where the little River Neb flows out into the sea, and St.
Patrick's Island (which is now no longer an island, but an artificial
peninsula), are as picturesque and old-fashioned as anyone can wish.
St. Patrick's Island, indeed, whether viewed at close quarters from
the little pier on the opposite side of the harbour--where sometimes
at night one almost stumbles over piles of freshly caught fish that
are left there to glimmer and glint in the moonlight--or seen from
a distance from the coast to the north of Peel Bay, is probably the
most striking object in the whole Kingdom of Man. Possibly the Rock
of Cashel, which the writer has never seen, is crowded with points
of interest as many and as diverse: nowhere else, he fancies, in the
range of the British seas is it possible to discover such variety of
interest concentrated in a space so diminutive as this. Here is an old
castle and a ruined palace, a round tower, a roofless cathedral, and
an old pre-Conquest church. None by itself is of great importance, but
the aggregate (bounded in seven acres) is imposing in its "infinite
variety." The round tower, of course, has analogies in Ireland, and at
Abernethy, Egilsay, and Brechin, in Scotland; but is absolutely without
parallel in England. Much learning has been expended on the meaning
of these structures, which were possibly nothing more or less than
places of refuge, strange as their shape may appear for this purpose,
for people to take shelter in times of sudden scare. The Peel round
tower, however, differs from its Scottish and Irish neighbours in being
of one uniform diameter from bottom to finish, not tapering like the
others towards its top. The cathedral of St. Germain, now derelict and
roofless, exhibits more distinctive architectural features than any
other old church in the island. Parts of it date from the thirteenth
century; and many bishops of Sodor and Man have been buried inside its
walls. One of these, Samuel Rutter, who died in 1662, is commemorated
still by an inscription so quaint--it is easy to believe that it was
written by himself--that we may be pardoned for setting out most of it
at length: "In hac domo quam A vermiculis accepi confratribus meis, spe
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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