one of the best known and most favourite glens in the island, and is
really very pretty--more one can hardly claim for it--always provided
that we have luck enough to visit it at a time when it is not overrun
by hordes of Douglas "trippers." The writer has only been in February,
when there was not even a custodian to exact the usual fee that is
demanded for admission. It is said to get its name from the daughter
of a former owner, who built what is called the Swiss Cottage--always
a name of disastrous omen--and planted a million trees. Many of these
last were burnt down some twenty years ago or more; and others had
been devastated by a tremendous storm that took place not long before
the writer's visit. It is still, however, a charming woodland walk to
follow up the dell to the Rhenass Fall towards its head, where the
stream descends over mossy crags in a theatre of deep seclusion. This
is the end of the orthodox glen; but by climbing above the fall on
the open hillside and penetrating the upland valley that lies between
Colden (1,599 feet) and Sart Fell (l,560 feet), we soon begin to get
among the mountains. Possibly, however, this digression involves some
trespassing; and trespass in Manx law--I write in utter ignorance--may
perhaps be invested with pains and penalties that do not surround it
in England! Another good digression from the main highroad may be made
by quitting it at Ballaugh, and proceeding through the Curraghs by way
of Jurby and Andreas. The Curraghs is the flattest part of the island,
and is formed of alluvial deposits. Ballaugh old church at any rate
is picturesque outside; and two other churches in this dull corner of
the island--Andreas and Bride--have each at least a brace of ancient
crosses. Of these old Manx crosses we hope soon to say something
more, when treating of the grand collection on the south side of the
graveyard at St. Maughold. Of Manx ecclesiology there is nothing to
be said: it is patently without interest or value. Peel Cathedral, we
have seen, has a little genuine thirteenth-century work, and Braddon
old church, like Jurby, is pleasant enough to look on. Moreover, a
skilled eye will doubtless detect traces of mediaevalism in many a
featureless edifice that might seem at first the uncomely product of
the soulless eighteenth century. But not even the best of the seventeen
old parish churches--and that, perhaps, is St. Maughold--is likely to
hold the archaeologist long, or help to fill his note-book. Even the
pre-Conquest chapel at Peel can hardly be called an exception; it is
simply a matter of four bare walls, quite without instructiveness or
feature.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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