Now this little Serque was the cell of St. Magloire, an Armorican or
Brittany bishop, and here he prayed and fasted himself into fitness for
the conversion of the Channel islets. This cell, in the reign of Edward
III., was still a ruined relic, and the islet was then a nest of
corsairs: it still assumes a sort of wild or neutral aspect. In the
reign of Edward VI. or that of Mary, the Flemings took it by stratagem,
but in 1565 it was securely colonized by Hilary or Helier de Carteret,
Lord of St. Ouen’s, under a grant from Mary and from Elizabeth of _fief
en Hubert_, a guerdon for knight’s service. There are monumental stones
indicating its association with the Britons, and the Romans we believe
were not ignorant of Serque. The _plan_ of this little gem is highly
eccentric: a table-land, four miles long, two miles its greatest
breadth, and five feet! at the narrowest, spread on a majestic pile of
rocks deeply indented with bays and coves and clefts, and fringed by
groups of rocklets and ledges, in all the fantastic fashioning of the
elements. These outposts, by increasing the difficulty of access, impart
a deeper interest to the islet, scarcely alloyed by the slight sense of
peril, for we are confident of being safely wafted, D. V., by the
superior skill of the Serque boatmen, even among breakers and
conflicting currents, into the tiny cove of _Le Creux_. So our _Lady of
Sark_ is safe at her moorings, and we are rowed into this puddle of a
harbour, completely overhung by perpendicular cliffs, 200 feet high, and
richly clothed with velvet mosses and lichens, a complete study for
Salvator or our own Pyne. This is the only point for landing in certain
states of current or surf, although in very calm weather there is an
available cove to eastward, and the daring may be run ashore in the
bays. But even from this beach we have no natural mode of escape. A
tunnel in the cliff opens by an arch, over which is the date 1688, the
year of its construction by the Carterets; and so we walk out and up
between green hills chequered with heath and rock, with triumphant pride
at thus carrying the mighty earthworks which the Gnome and the Triton
have raised around their granite home. And so we seek our hostelry, and
find it in a capital farm-house, and we are soon engaged with Madame
Vaudin in a cosy chat, in which come out, so unexpectedly, records of
our lamented friend, Sir John Franklin, who years ago sojourned in our
very chamber, and slumbered within those green curtains; and all this
while the fish and the ducks and the puddings, bathed in exquisite
cream, are being prepared for our luxurious and most economic feasting.
And then, in the kitchen, we discuss the statistics, the poetry, and the
government of the islet with this ancient, clever dame. Of this it is
enough to record, that there are about forty yeomen, tillers of the
land, in Serque, the magistracy of the isle, quite a Venetian Senate;
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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